This section is from the book "First Aid to Amateur Beekeepers", by Henry Perkins. Also available from Amazon: First Aid to Amateur Beekeepers.
Many methods of artificial increase have been devised. I will briefly describe the two most commonly used, the divide and the nucleus. Before proceeding further however it is necessary to consider by what means queens are to be provided for the new colonies. Briefly they may be supplied from queen cells raised in the apiary or buying queens from a queen breeder. The latter plan is recommended for the beginner.
The divide should not be made till the new queen arrives though a day or two before will be all right. I am going to give my way of dividing a colony into two equal parts. About noon on a bright day when bees are flying freely is the proper time. I place about one half of the brood and one third of the bees in the new hive which is placed on the original stand while the parent hive containing the queen and two thirds of the bees is moved at once to a new stand, if possible twenty yards distant. The returning field' bees will enter the new hive in sufficient numbers to bring it up to the same strength as the parent colony if calculations have been correct. The new queen should be introduced into the new colony by the cage method at once or within a day or so. (See "Introducing Queens. ")
A nucleus is simply a very small colony. The size of the nucleus is indicated by the number of combs the nucleus is given when it is made. Nuclei made for the purpose of increase must be built up to full colonies. Making two or three frame nuclei is a very simple matter. First find the queen of the colony from which the nucleus is to be taken and set the comb she is on aside. Now put one or two combs of sealed brood and at least one comb of honey with adhering bees in the new hive. Shake in the bees from two more combs. Introduce the new queen at once by the cage method. Carry the nucleus to a new stand. The entrance should be closed by a piece of screen till nightfall. Many of the old bees will return to the parent hive the next day but the young ones will remain in the new hive with the new queen.
Small nuclei should only be made in the spring time while the season is young. They must have time to gain strength for the honey flow that is to come; combs must be built, etc. Two or even three small nuclei may be taken from a very strong colony without seriously impairing its strength. Many beekeepers prevent their strong colonies from swarming just before the flow by this method. Divides or nuclei should be fed or well supplied with honey if plenty is not coming in. In increasing as above described it is not absolutely necessary even for a beginner to go to the expense of purchasing queens. Queenless colonies will, barring accidents, raise themselves a queen. Mature swarming cells (see "Swarming" may be cut out and transferred to queenless colonies thereby overcoming the loss of time involved in allowing them to build their own. Still another way to provide queen cells in anticipation of increase to be made is to make a strong colony queenless about eight days beforehand. This colony should build a dozen or more good cells. The divides or nuclei should be allowed to go queenless two days before receiving transplanted cells. If given the cells at once they would in all probability not be aware of their queenless condition and therefore destroy them. In handling queen cells great care should be taken to not jar them in any way. They are very delicate and should not be handled till about ten days old. In transplanting a queen cell from one colony to another a small piece of comb should be taken with it. Do not break it off with the fingers. In so doing you will kill it. It should be placed in the center of the queenless colony where it will be kept warm. A small recess should be made to receive it in the comb to which it is to be attached. A toothpick may be used to pin it in place.
I would like to take my readers deeper into the study of queen rearing but it is quite impossible without illustrations. Queen rearing is a special department of beekeeping. I advise those who care to experiment along that line to purchase a standard work on queen rearing. It is a fascinating study. The professional queen breeder uses an artificial queen cell into which the young larvae is transferred by hand. This delicate operation is known as cell grafting.
Every beekeeper should know enough about queen raising to raise most of his queens in one way or another. Queens purchased from breeders may or may not be worth the price. Look well to the reputation of your breeder.
 
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