FEEDERS: Bees will take syrup out of al most any kind of vessel but they are apt to become daubed or drowned outright if given full access to the syrup. For heavy feeding use a five or ten pound honey can of the press-top type. Perforate the cover in about twenty places with an awl or very fine finishing nail. Invert the can on top of the brood frames inside a vacant super. The syrup will be held in suspense by vacuum and will be released only as fast as the bees take it through the perforations. The Boardman cap and block is a modification of the same principal adapted to use a

Mason quart jar. It attaches to the hive entrance and is in full view at all times. It may be refilled without opening the hive. It is very convenient for light stimulative feeding.

DIVISION BOARDS: The purpose of the division board is to reduce the width of the hive. Contracting the size of the brood chamber during winter and early spring is an aid to weak colonies.

BEE ESCAPE BOARDS: The bee escape board is a fiat board the size of an eight or ten frame hive fitted with one or more bee escapes. A bee escape is a small tin affair fitted with a system of light springs which permit the passage of a bee in one direction only. Slip an escape board, right side up, between the brood chamber and super and leave it there for two days. The bees will have all passed out of the super after which the honey may be removed without the use of smoke. They are especially recommended for comb honey production.

BEE VEILS AND GLOVES: Beekeepers like every one else have a variety of whims and notions regarding equipment and appliances for their work. So it is not surprising that we find a half dozen or more styles of veils and gloves. They all accomplish the main idea, to protect the hands and face without obstructing the vision or otherwise hampering the wearer. Veils should be made of black material. Cloth gloves are scant protection against stings unless rubberized or otherwise rendered impenetrable to a bee sting.

MOVING SCREENS: A moving screen is a screen covered frame which is nailed on the hive in place of the cover to provide ventilation for the bees when they are being hauled from place to place. They come in eight and ten frame sizes.

SMOKERS: Smokers are made in three sizes. Smokers with a valve bellows are the best. Burlap, cotton waste or even dry leaves makes a good fuel.

EXTRACTING EQUIPMENT: Under the head of extracting equipment comes extractors, uncapping cans and melter, uncapping knives and settling tanks. Extractors are made from two frame to forty-five frame capacity. The operation is extremely simple. The uncapped combs are placed on end in the wire mesh comb pockets. The machine is speeded up for a minute or so. The comb pockets are then reversed when the other side is emptied in the same manner. The honey is thrown out of the combs by centrifugal force.

The uncapping knife is used to remove the capping from sealed combs. It must be kept hot by frequent dipping in hot water unless you use a steam heated knife. Steam uncapping knives have a steam jacket blade which is supplied with live steam by means of a small rubber hose connected with a tiny boiler, set over an ordinary oil burner near by.

An uncapping can is a round tub-like vessel made of galvanized iron. It is equipped with a strainer and a board across the top. The comb to be uncapped is rested on one end on the board. The cappings as they are removed drop into the strainer. Capping melters are more elaborate. They separate the cappings from the honey by means of heat. A two burner oil or gas stove is sufficient to operate one.

Settling tanks are for the purpose of settling extracted honey which is drawn off through a gate at the bottom into five gallon cans and is then ready for the market. They run from one half ton to five tons capacity.

The beginner is often puzzled to know just what to buy in the way of equipment. Of course, the extent of your plans will be an influencing factor. The cost of extracting equipment, extracting house, etc., would scarcely be justified for an apiary of less than ten colonies. A two frame extractor will do nicely for from ten to thirty colonies. If you are planning on keeping more than thirty colonies then you should purchase a four frame extractor, capping melter and one ton tank at the outset. A small frame house 10x12 with screen ventilated sides and screen door is the customary type of extracting house.