These resemble that of a man, only larger in size, and can not live on a human being. It causes great irritation, the dog scratching and worrying himself constantly. They live on all, or any part of the body, but most abundant about the head and face, the eyes, roots of ears, and along the top of the back. By closely examining the dog's skin, red streaks and dots of blood will be seen where the louse has been feeding.

One species is described in Prof. Neumann's "Parasites," translated by Prof. Fleming:

"The head is short and almost as wide as long; it is salient in the thorax to which it is exactly applied; the third and fourth articles of the antennae are alike. The abdomen is very developed in the female, and is a long oval in shape; it has nine rounded segments, which are often salient at the sides; stigmates distinct and marginal; the first seven segments have two rows of short bristles. The general tint is yellowish-white, the head and thorax being a little darker. The female is 2mm. long, and the male l-15mm." This louse is oftener found about the throat and back of the ears, but extends to all parts of the body.

The other louse of the dog is Trichodectes latus, of which this is Neumann's description: "The head is sub-quadrangular and much wider than it is long, being truncated in front; the antennae are hairy and different in the two sexes, the first article in the male being much thicker, and occupying a moiety of the length of the organ. The abdomen is broad, and more rounded in the female, with lateral, but no median spots. The color is bright yellow, spots darker; the bands on the head are biackish-brown. Length of the female is l-5mm., of the male l-4mm."

My dog soap will destroy lice if thoroughly and well rubbed in, allowed to remain on dog for half an hour, when you can rinse off and dry the dog. If in winter, cold or damp weather, you must of course be careful and not expose dog to danger of catching cold. It is the only preparation in the way of a dog soap that will kill lice, containing one ingredient which is a secret, that enables it to do such good work in exterminating the pests that dogs are liable to have, and yet perfectly harmless to the dog, even if he should lick it, being non-poisonous as well as being excellent for the coat and a great hair grower. I may here add that it is just as good in every way for use on the owner's head as it is for his dog. In using my soap to rid a dog of lice, give dog a most thorough shampooing with your hands, not missing a spot on his body from tip of nose to end of tail. Rub as close up to and around the eye as you can without getting it into the eye, but no particular harm could come if the lather get in the eye. Repeat this application the same way twenty-four hours later, this to kill the youngsters that breed every twenty-four hours.

After the application has been on dog for an hour, you can then rinse in lukewarm water and dry thoroughly with a rough towel. The same care as to dog being exposed to cold air or draughts must be exercised as in an ordinary bath. My soap can well be termed a wonderful discovery, and it is without doubt by far the best dog soap ever made.

Here is another treatment to give:

"Lice, the presence of which gives rise to the affection sometimes termed phthiriasis, are of common distribution, as parasites throughout the animal kingdom. Two varieties affect the dog, namely, the Hcemato-pinus Piliferus, and the Trichodectes Latus.' The first of these, as a rule, is chiefly found about the head, ears, etc., but may wander over any part of the body; the second is found over various other parts of the body, and appears to play an important part in the life history of the tapeworm, the eggs of which it may eat, and so act as an 'intermediary bearer' of the internal parasite, which finds its way into the alimentary canal through the accidental swallowing by the dog, of the external parasite.

"Both species of parasite are destitute of wings, yellowish grey or yellow in color, and have their mouths specially adapted for sucking. Pediculf always cause more or less itching, consequently a tendency to scratch. This is not all, but in many cases they lead to the formation of scabi.

"The female is larger than the male, and deposits her eggs, or nits, upon the hairs, attaching each one thereto by a tough transparent sheath. The female lays about 50 eggs, which are hatched in two days.

Treatment

It is not usually a very difficult matter to get rid of lice. Thorough cleanliness is essential, with disinfection and destruction of all material with which the animal has been in contact. Sucking pups are frequently affected, in which case the treatment must be directed to both parent and offspring. After cleansing of the kennel, destruction of the bedding material, etc., the former should be washed with soft soap and warm watar, afterwardi dressed with the following solution: Stavesacre seads 1 ounce, water 1 quart. The seed must be boiled for about an hour in Water, and then adding sufficienl water to bring it up to a quart again. With this the dog should be thoroughly dressed from head to tail, taking care not to leave one hair untouched. It is certain death to both parasite and eggs. After 24 hours it may be washed off, and, if necessary, applied again. The suckling pups must be combed before being given back to their mother. This must be repeated daily, until they are perfectly free from vermin. They may also be dressed with the same solution, but it should be diluted, five ounces of camphor being added to five ounces of camphor water. Of course washing is here inadmissable. Another remedy, which is equally effectual, is a weak solution of lime and sulphur lotion, whilst for animals of a more mature age, it may be used of the ordinary strength."

The following will also destroy lice:

Flour of sulphur ........................... 1 pound.

Unslacked lime ............................. 1/2 pound.

Water ..................................... 1 gallon.

Slake the lime in the water, stir in the sulphur, adding water gradually ' until it is of a creamy consistence, then add the remainder of the gallon and boil down to half a gallon; let it stand till cool, pour off the clear liquid, and make the quantity to two and a half quarts with cold water. If the coat and skin is thoroughly saturated with this, and left on for ten minutes, the vermin will all be dead, when the dog should then be well washed, using warm water, and thoroughly combed and dried. This may be too strong a solution for delicate toy dogs with tender skins, and can be reduced in strength by adding equal parts of water to one of the lotion. If any doubt exists as to this, first try the weaker solution.

Another and a harmless and non-poisonous remedy for lice is Eber-hart's Skin Cure, which will do the work if well rubbed in, never missing a spot on the dog, allowed to remain in for half an hour, and applied again twenty-four hours later.

These dressings should be repeated in eight days, in order to destroy the young lice from the "nits" or eggs, laid before the previous dressing.

Here, I give also, a very good article on Lice, which I found somewhere, and it is worth including:

"Lice cause great irritation and will eventually, if means are not taken to rid the dog of the living burden, take the blood out of the dog and eventually cause death. Of course that is extreme, but a bunch of such parasites if not heroically handled will soon get ahead of the operator and then there is nothing to do but shave the animal and give it a strong soaking in some mixture that will kill the 'nits.' Mercurial ointment is a sure knocker, but it is not advisable for the novice to use unless instructed in its application and the precaution to be taken that the dog does not lick the ointment afterwards and thus become more or less poisoned. This is obviated by muzzling until the ointment wears off, or is washed off.

The best thing we have found is an emulsion made of one-third very hot milk mixed with two-thirds kerosene oil. We generally mix it in a handy bottle with a shake stopper and opening the coat drop in the emulsion which of course must be well shaken while being applied. The milk counteracts any blistering of the skin that might arise from the application of the oil alone. This kills everything living and saturates the eggs which are the source of course of future trouble, and the reason some people find it impossible to get rid of lice while the dog lives. This treatment is not only death to lice, but life to the coat, bringing it out in glossy profusion. The milk must be very hot, but not boiling or it will curdle in the oil. When the emulsion has dried in, it is well to wash the dog, though this is not absolutely necessary unless the odor of kerosene is offensive.

However many cures one may make the best one is prevention and the measures to be adopted will occur to any intelligent dog owner. At the same time if it is a case of the home dog as above, it is very difficult to handle and unless periodic treatment is given the dog the trouble will get ahead before you are aware. In the kennels one may adopt heroic measures in the way of burning partitions and the like nests, but in a kitchen, however clean, it may be kept, there are little nooks and cracks that cannot be so strenuously treated, for the dog may lie around in many places. Applications of strong disinfectants like 'Standard Disinfectant' is very good for this purpose." - See their ad. in this book.

Naturally dogs that are kept in clean quarters and groomed every day do not have lice unless, as we hinted above, they touch some dog that has lice or come in contact with some place where lice dogs frequent. This may seem superfluous advice to the wise owner of dogs, but it is just this ignorance on the part of novice owners of dogs that breeds lice and kindred parasites, that start skin troubles and all sorts of derangements sauced by continual scratching and the nervous condition in which a dog infested with lice soon finds itself. The emulsion spoken of above may be used with safety on any dog. Should a pet dog start any such trouble, rubbing with alcohol will usually put a quietus on the vermin.

The writer has just tried, for the first time, "Standard Disinfectant," on an Irish setter that came back from a show with lice he got there, and in two thorough applications, using a stiff brush to apply it, I cleared this dog of the lice. I put three ounces "Standard Disinfectant" in a pail, then added a gallon of water to it, and then used a sponge for his head - then use a stiff brush for rest of his body, legs and tail, applying it liberally. In ten minutes after I thoroughly dried him with rough towels. Only two applications were necessary in his case, as I did not miss a spot on him, but sometimes it might be necessary for more applications, if you had missed a few lice.

A special article from Field and Fancy: