Notwithstanding the injunction to use only the best soaps on dogs, and the natural desire of all to comply with it, many are likely to stumble at this point since so large a proportion of the brands reputed to be of the highest qualities are of cheap ingredients and therefore practically worthless as well as injurious to the skin and coat. Consequently the reader should be provided with a formula for preparing his own soap for kennel use.

Mr. Charles H. Mason, a breeder and exhibitor of long experience, and now known to the kennel world as America's foremost judge, informs the writer that the best kennel soap of which he knows is made as follows: -

I pound of "Crown soap,"

I ounce of "mild" mercurial ointment,

I ounce of powdered camphor.

These ingredients must be thoroughly mixed.

Mr. Mason used this soap for at least ten years, and with the best results, as proved by the many reports of the English papers praising the condition of his dogs.

"Crown soap," as it is called in this country, is a soft soap which is extensively used for various purposes in England, often by ladies in washing their hair, and many of them have asserted that no other soap leaves it so soft and silken. But here the use to which it is largely devoted is cleaning fine harness, the leather of which it leaves in good color, glossy and "kind." And from harness dealers it can be obtained in jars or barrels.

It is presumably made of seed oils, and differs vastly in value as well as composition from the common soft soaps of America, which are very generally manufactured from refuse fat and grease, and are so strongly alkaline that they are most decidedly injurious to the skin and hair. Consequently the reader must not attempt to substitute one of them.

"Mild" mercurial ointment is called for, but there is none such in the American pharmacopoeia, and he who has this formula put up should inform his druggist that he desires the mercurial ointment popularly known as "blue ointment," and that it should be diluted one-half; or he can obtain the ointment in full strength and add to each pound of soap one-half an ounce of it instead of one ounce of the diluted or "mild."

Soft soap of good quality is much used by physicians in cutaneous diseases, and chiefly eczema and scabies. As for mercurial ointment, that has a destructive action on parasitic growths and vermin; while camphor is a sedative and allays itching. It will appear, therefore, that soap made after the foregoing formula must be most admirable, not only as a means of cleanliness and of promoting health of the skin, but also as an insecticide and preventive of mange and other skin disorders. That it is really all this experience has abundantly proved, and the writer unhesitatingly places it before all others for use in the kennel.

Drying should always be effected as speedily as possible after washing, and with soft and perfectly clean towels, the rubbing on long-coated dogs at least being carefully and gently done. And in all instances the drying of these dogs should be followed by a gentle use of the brush. But that must be perfectly clean, and it is easily made so by standing it, bristles down, in a shallow pan containing a strong mixture of the water of ammonia and water, and rinsing well afterward.

The brushing over, the dogs should be blanketed and bedded with clean straw. It is well to add here that it is the custom of some to hand rub after the brushing and while the coat is yet slightly damp, but to this there is the decided objection that the hands then draw too much on the roots of the hair.

While as a rule to wash a dog properly is not difficult, the washing of Yorkshire terriers is an entirely different matter, and here the novice would be all at sea; in fact he should never attempt it on a good dog, for many a "crack" has been ruined in the tub; consequently for him should be given full directions.

A foot-pan is as good as anything to do the washing in. Place this on the table. Put in as much lukewarm water as will nearly reach to the dog's elbows. Mix in the soap until you have suds - never rub the soap on the dog. Now take a brush, a hair-brush that has a handle and long bristles, dip it in the suds and brush from the centre of the back down, and always one way. The head must be washed in the same manner: brush from the centre downward; in fact use the brush just as you do when not washing.

When you are sure you have reached all parts and the hair and skin are thoroughly clean, pass the hand from the centre of the back downward and force out as much of the soap and water as you can; and then use the sponge in about the same way. This done, lift the dog out and put him into another tub, which is all ready on the table, containing clean lukewarm water, and brush him, just as you did with the suds, until all the soap is out. With the hands and sponge get out as much water as you can. Remove him from the tub and stand him on the table, put over him a cloth or towel and pass the hands over it with gentle pressure, that it may take up some of the water that remains in his coat; but on no account must the hair be rubbed or ruffled.

Now, after combing him with a comb that has widely set teeth, begins a long and tedious process of drying. For this you must have two or three brushes, and while one is being used the others must be drying in front of the fire.

This drying will occupy a full hour. When completed, take a little fine oil in the palm of the hand, rub the hands together and then pass them over the coat. This done, tie up the "bang "with a piece of ribbon or tape to keep it from the eyes.

Some dogs, in fact nearly all, will "fiddle" - scratch themselves, especially the very heavy-coated ones, which in hot weather may become heated and restless; and these must have "stockings "for the hind feet. The thumb of an old glove will fill the bill. Put the foot into this and tie with a piece of narrow tape around the leg.

Let the dog run about in the room, provided you can watch him, for an hour or so. Then draw the brush over him a few times and "cage "him. But do not oblige him to lie on plush or velvet cushions, for they are far from suitable. A linen cover is the proper thing for a cushion, for it cannot stain nor does the coat adhere to it. And such a cover should be so made that it can be taken off and washed.