This section is from the book "Cooking Vegetables. Practical American Cookery", by Jules Arthur Harder. Also available from Amazon: The Physiology Of Taste.
No. 457. - There is a disposition to grow red or pink Celery in preference to the white, which is as it should be, for as regards the flavor the red and pink are far superior to the white. The Major Clark Pink is a variety of medium growth of stiff, close habit, having a large heart, remarkably solid and crisp, and of a fine walnut flavor.
No. 458. - An excellent dwarf variety, solid and crisp.
No. 459. - Trim off the green stems, then cut off the tops, leaving the yellow center leaves. Make two deep incisions in the bottom of the stalk, so as to be able to wash the Celery well in cold water.
No. 460. - Trim the Celery, using only the tender hearts. Then put them in a basin, on ice, until ready for use, and then serve them in Celery glasses. Serve with a sauce made of Anchovie paste, diluted with warmed sweet oil, without letting it boil, or plain Anchovie butter. It can also be served after dinner, plain, with the cheese.
No. 461. - Trim and wash the Celery in cold water, letting it lay on ice until ready for use. Then dry it on a napkin and cut it in thin sliced sticks, an inch and a half long. Season it with salt, pepper, and a few spoonfuls of cream of mustard dressing.
No. 462. - Clean and wash the celery and cut it in bunches, five or six inches in length from the root. Tie them together, single or double. Then parboil them for three minutes, immerse them in cold water and dry them on a napkin. Put some thin slices of fat pork in a saucepan and arrange the celery on it. Then season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a pinch of sugar. Moisten it with veal gravy or a light Espagnole sauce, and cover with thin slices of fat pork. Put the saucepan on the fire, let it boil, and then cook slowly until tender and nicely glazed. Then put the Celery in a dish, strain the gravy through a fine sieve, and skim off the grease. Then pour the gravy over the Celery and serve.
No. 463. - Clean and wash the Celery and cut the white part in pieces of even size two inches long. Parboil them for three minutes, then immerse them in cold water and dry them on a napkin. Put the Celery in a flat saucepan, with a piece of butter, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Cover the saucepan and let the Celery simmer until the moisture is reduced. Then cover it with white broth. Let it reduce on a brisk fire to a glaze, when the Celery must be cooked. Then add three spoonfuls of Tomato sauce and one of Espagnole sauce, and let it cook slowly for ten minutes. Add a small piece of butter, some parsley chopped fine, and toss it all well over a fire. Then serve with small toast of marrow around the dish as a garniture.
No. 464. - Prepare the Celery the same as in No. 463, and when it is cooked to a glaze add four spoonfuls of Allemande sauce. When it is ready to serve add a small piece of butter, some finely chopped parsley and the juice of one lemon. Toss it well over the fire and serve with small pieces of toast as a garniture.
 
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