This section is from the book "Culinary Jottings", by Wyvern. Also available from Amazon: Culinary Jottings.
For a party of eight.
Consomme an maccaroni.*
Filets de pomfret aux fines herbes.
Epigrammes de mouton aux epinards.
Quenelles de volaille an macedoine de legumes.
Quartier d'agnean aux petits pois.
Chaud-froid de becassines.
Chon-fleur an gratin.
Reine-claudes a la creme.
Charlotte Russe an praline.
Fromage, hors d'oeuvres.
Dessert.
1. - Proceed to make a bright clear consomme in the usual way: boil till tender in milk or weak stock some pieces of maccaroni: when done, drain them, let them get cold, and cut them into thin rings, add them to your consomme just before serving, with a dessert-spoonful of sherry to which a few drops of tabasco or chilli vinegar have been added, let a plate of grated Parmesan be hand-ed round with the soup,
* If able to procure small Italian pastes such as stelle, gnioccoli, pesci, anellini ricci, etc, treat them as explained for maccaroni and call your soup "consomme aux pates d' Italie.
Clear soup with maccaroni.
2. - Divide a good sized pomfret into eight nice fillets :- Put the bones and trimmings with an onion cut up, a carrot, a bit of celery, sprig of parsley and a pinch of salt into some water, and boil them at once ; meanwhile spread jour fillets on a board, brush them over on one side only with a beaten egg, now shake over them a tea-spoonful of finely minced parsley, the same of cooked onion chopped fine, a dessert-spoonful of minced mush room, and a little white pepper: roll up your fillets and pin them into shape with a small skewer Now strain off your liquor from the bones and trimmings, give it a table-spoonful of chablis or santerne, and set your fillets in it to Liner gently till done (they should take about twelve or fourteen minutes) take them out, draw out the skewers, them on a very hoi dish, and cover them up. Now melt a lump of butter quickly in a sauce-pan, work a spoonful of Hour into it : throw in a little Bait, with a pinch of sugar, and moisten with as much of the fish broth as will make a nice white Bauce to cover your fillets ; add, as you take the sauce-pan off the fire, the yolk of an egg, a tea-spoonful of anchovy vinegar, a table-spoonful of very finely chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of minced marjoram, and a tea-spoonful of minced garden cress. Pour it over your fillets and serve.
3. - Braise a breast of mutton in a stew-pan with some white wine and water, an onion, two tomatoes, carrots, celery, whole pepper, salt, a clove of garlic, some pars-ley, and a tea-spoonful of dried thyme. When sufficiently done to enable you to remove the bones, draw the pan from the fire, take out the breast, and pick out the bones; then place it flat on a dish with a heavy weight upon it: strain the broth and vegetables in which the meat was cooked, putting the vegetables aside and setting the gravy to cool.
Fillets of pomfret with herbs.
Epigrams of mutton with spinach.
These operations should be performed early in the day. When the breast has become thoroughly cold, remove the weight, and divide the meat into eight nice collops. Brush them over with egg, and bread-crumb them with some very finely sifted stale bread-crumbs crisped in the oven, Let them stand for an hour, and repeat the process, - re-crumbing them again. Now fry them in boiling fat a nice golden yellow, take them out, drain them dry, and arrange them round a ring of spinach (page 145) garnished with hard-boiled eggs neatly cut up, and fried parsley.
For the sauce : - skim every atom of fat from the gravy you set to get cold, put a lump of butter in a sauce-pan. work a little flour into it when melted, gradually add your gravy; stir well, and let the sauce thicken, add some caramel colouring, a dessert-spoonful of sherry, and a tea-spoonful of red currant jelly, and put this into a hot sauce boat, and serve. The sauce should be as thick as ordinary rich cream. A few dice of sliced cornichons (gherkins) may be mingled with the sauce, or minced mushrooms if you have them.
4. - Choose a nice pullet not quite full grown; cut it up, saving all the meat from the breast, wings, back, and thighs and the liver : throw the skin, fragments, bones, and giblets, into a sauce-pan to make broth for the sauce. Now make a coffee-cupful of stiff paste with a little butter, flour, water, and a pinch of salt; when ready, take half the quantity of butter that you have of chicken meat, and half the amount of the paste that you have of butter : mince the chicken in the machine, and pound it in a mortar with the paste and butter; bind the mixture with three eggs, flavour it with a little spiceel pepper, and from the quenelles between two table-spoons. For a dinner party, you would, no doubt, put a nice piece of truffle inside each quenelle.
Chicken quenelles, with mixed vegetables cut into dice, and heated up in nicely flavoured white sauce.
For the sauce: - take equal portions of carrot, peas, turnip, French beans, and cucumber, all previously boiled ; cut them into dice and heat them up in a white sauce made with the water in which they were boiled, and enriched with the chicken broth, which should be slightly flavoured with almond. In this case make your socle of savoury rice instead of the usual mashed potato : that is, boiled rice, flavoured with salt, a little spice, the pulp of a tomato, and a little finely grated cheese, stirred well with melted butter, and made firm by the addition of the yolks of two or three eggs, according to the quantity required. This should be set in the silver dish, formed in a circle, brushed with egg, bread-crumbed, and slightly browned in the oven; the quenelles, carefully poached, should then be arranged round it, the macedoine being-poured into the centre.
5. - Order the quarter of lamb beforehand, roast it very carefully, and serve it with a nice dish of green peas, potatoes, and mint sauce (hot) in a boat.
6. - The chawl-jroid will require one snipe a head: take your eight birds, and roast them over a bright fire, let them get cold, remove the breasts, forming two fillets of the breast of each bird. Next make the richest sauce you can by boiling and simmering all the bones, remnants of meat, and the trails of the snipe in as much common stock as will cover them well; dried thyme, lime peel, a pinch of spice, a tomato, one onion sliced, and some lean bacon or ham should accompany the bones; after you have simmered this for half an hour, strain the liquor clear, and thicken it with butter and flour as previously described; slice two or three truffles, toss the slices in a frying-pan with an ounce of butter, adding a table-spoonful of Madeira, let the truffles simmer awhile, and pour the contents of the pan into the sauce, stir continually, flavour it with red currant jelly, half a glass of Madeira, and lime juice, reduce it to a firm glaze, and put it aside to get cool. Glaze the fillets. Decorate a border mould with hard-boiled egg, gherkins, and olives, fill it with aspic jelly, and set in the ice-box. As dinner hour approaches, turn out the border of jelly, and pack the hollow in the centre of it with layers of glazed fillets, and the pieces of truffle here and there, let the whole remain as long as you can in ice, and serve with crisp, dry toast "in waiting."
Quarter of lamb with green peas.
Fillets of snipes dressed with cold sauce.
7. - Choose a nice cauliflower and boil it carefully ; it should be under rather than over-done. Slice the stem evenly so that the cauliflower will sit up straight. Place it in a neat dish that will stand the fire, well buttered, - the flower in the centre, and the tender leaves neatly arranged round it, - give it a dust of white pepper and a dream of salt, then pour round, so that all the crevices may be filled, a break-fast-cupful of veloute au fromage, page 242. Sprinkle a layer of grated Parmesan over the surface, and bake the dish in a quick oven for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, - lastly, by passing a red hot iron just over the top, brown the surface of the cheese.
8. - Turn the greengages out into a glass dish, dissolve an ounce of gelatine, and stir it with a liqueur-glass of maraschino into the syrup : set the dish in the ice-box to get firm and cold, and serve with a canopy of whipped cream resting on the surface of the congealed fruit.
9. - Line a mould with finger biscuits as described in Menu No. IV. Put a couple of ounces of sugar in a copper-pan; melt it till it is very hot; then stir into it a quarter of a pound of blanched Jordan almonds for a few minutes. Now spread the almonds on a dish to cool, and when cold, pound them to a puree saving a few, which should only be minced roughly, and stirred into the ice when nearly formed. Mix a pint and a half of very rich custard, and stir the burnt almond puree into it while quite hot. strain, whip, and add half an ounce of dissolved gelatine. Next put the custard into the pail, adding a breakfast-cupful of whipped cream, and finishing it as explained in the menu previously quoted.
Baked cauliflower.
Greengages in cream.
Charlotte Russe with burnt almonds.
Note. - The only change necessary in this menu is to Bend the quarter of lamb after the fish, and roast the snipes, serving them with fried potato chips, bread-crumbs, and a salad.
 
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