This section is from the book "Culinary Jottings", by Wyvern. Also available from Amazon: Culinary Jottings.
For a party of six.
Potage a la Nivernaise.
Filets de soles, sauce a la pauvre hommo.
Filets de lapin a l'ltalienne.
Longe de mouton braisee.
Rouelles de sarcelles a la Wyvern.
Tomates a l'ltalienne.
"Pudding" a la "Queen Mab."
Souffle de vanille.
Fromage, hors d'oeuvres.
Dessert.
1. - This is a soup in the style of Julienne, of which the flavour is exclusively restricted to that of carrots. Having set your soup meat for stock as usual for a clear soup, you should take four good-sized carrots, wash them well, and cut out of them a number of thickish pieces the size and shape of a pigeon's egg, or a little smaller. When you have cut a couple of dozen such pieces, throw all the scraps and trimmings of the carrots into the stock pot, to flavour the soup well. Shortly before serving time, you must cook the trimmed carrots in this way: - Melt a table-spoonful of butter in a frying-pan, put into it the carrot pieces, which should have been all but boiled till soft in the soup, and toss them about over the fire adding a salt-spoonful of powdered sugar, with a dusting of pepper and of salt, and moistening the pan with a spoonful of stock as the butter is absorb-ed; when done, the pieces of carrot will be almost glazed. All you have then to do, - your consomme having been strained, clarified and prepared for serving, - is to put the glazed carrots into the tureen, and pour the soup over them.
Nivernaise soup.
2. - Fillet a couple of nice soles, brush the fillets over on one side with egg, dust over that some minced parsley and shallot, and roll up your fillets, securing each in shape with a tiny skewer. Simmer these fillets carefully in a broth made from their own bones and trimmings, assisted by a spoonful of chablis or sauterne, and a coffee-cupful of stock. When done (which you can find out by testing them with a pointed skewer) place the fillets on a hot dish and cover them up.
For the sauce : - Fry a couple of finely minced onions in butter till they assume a golden tint, stir into this, by degrees, a coffee-cupful of the gravy in which the fillets were cooked. When boiling, sharpen this by adding a spoonful of vinegar, then strain and pour it into another sauce-pan (by degrees) in which some good sauce blanche has been made ; mix thoroughly over the fire, and serve round the fillets.
3. - I do not think that we utilize rabbits as much as we might at Madras. Those who keep them, or can procure them, will find this an exceedingly nice entree for a change. Assuming that the rabbit be a full grown one, it will yield six nice fillets as follows : - With a sharp knife detach from either side of the back bone the deep strips of meat which run from the shoulder to the end of the loin: cut out each strip whole, and remove the small nerves or sinews of each, or they will crinkle up in cooking, and look ugly. Cut each strip into three equal portion cross wise, flatten them with a bat, trim them neatly, lard them with bacon, and lay them upon a battered tin in the ores sufficiently long to stiffen them; take them out, place them under a weight, and when quite cold and firm, dip them into some melted batter or sweet salad oil, and roll them in a mixture of bread crumbs, and grated mild cheese, in equal proportions, dust oyer them some spiced pep-per, and a little salt and let them rest to set thoroughly. Next dip then, carefully in a soup platc oontaining an egg beaten up, and then roll them in very fine bread-crumbs. They may he 1 left Dow till wanted. When that time comes, they must be fried in abundance of fat, and served, a pale golden yellow, round a circle of savoury rice, or maccaroni au parmesan. The centre of the circle may contain any nice puree of vegetable, or petits pois.
Sole fillets, with poor man's sauce.
Rabbit fillets in the Italian way.
All the remains of the rabbit, shoulders, legs etc, can be made into a pie, with a chicken, and left to be Cold for break-fast, or lunch, the next day. Or the meal may be pounded, and served as quenelles, or plainly stewed with vegetables for the former meal.
Sauce Milanaise (given at the bottom of page 83) should accompany this entree.
4. - Braise the loin attentively, strain and thicken the gravy in which it was cooked, and serve with red currant jelly, mashed potatoes delicately browned in the oven, and French beans (properly trimmed, and cooked in the jar, remember) over which a little boiling cream has been poured.
5. - The only part of a teal which the generality of people eat at a dinner party is the breast. There is no time to pick the scantily covered back, legs, and wings;
Loin of mutton braised.
Teal fillets Wyvero's way besides, by the time the game reaches you, your hunger is so far appeased that you feel inclined for a slice, rather than a whole bird. Why waste the part of the bird that is never eaten? I propose therefore to cut off the breasts, of the teal, whole, bones and all, and to divide each in half; to marinade these pieces all day in a little oil, lime juice, sliced onion, and sweet herbs, then to grill them over a bright clear fire, and to send them up piping hot, and full of juice straight from the gridiron. Early in the day, when I trimmed the breasts, I would throw every atom of the backs, legs, giblets, etc, into a sauce-pan with the usual concomitants of gravy making, and distil their essence by gentle simmering. This I would strain when done. I would then pick all the meat from the fragments, pound it a la puree, and add it, with butter and flour thickening, to the gravy of the bones, judiciously introducing a tea-spoonful of red currant jelly, a dessert-spoonful of lime juice, some caramel colouring and a glass of red wine, or Madeira, with a few drops of ' tabasco' or chilli vinegar to finish with. This sauce I would send round in a boat, as hot as possible, following the grilled breasts,
6. - For this entremets de legumes, please turn to page 159.
7, - Boil a pint and a half of milk with a few drops of lemon essence and sugar to taste; then strain, and let it get cold. Beat up six yolks, and pour the flavoured milk upon them. Put this into the bain-marie, and stir gently over the fire until it thickens. Whip it well. Dissolve an ounce of gelatine in a little milk, add it to the above, and stir the custard until nearly cold, then pour the mixture by degrees into a buttered mould, adding two ounces of preserved cherries or finely chopped apricots and one ounce of citron peel or preserved ginger cut very small in layers, setting them carefully, and when the mould quite set, turn it out
Tomatoes in the Italian way.
Queen Mab pudding.
8. -I gave you a chocolate souffle in Menu No. 16; this, is an entremets sucre of the same family, but composedof less delicate materials. Mix together in a sauce-pan one table-spoonful of flour, a small piece of fresh butter, half a pint of new milk, and a dessert-spoonful of powdered sugar: stir this over the fire to get thoroughly warm but no more ; then put it on one side to get cool, stirring to prevent any scum forming on the surface. When quite cold, stir into it the yolks of four eggs, add a few drops of vanilla flavouring, mix this thoroughly, then throw in a table-spoonful of any liqueur you may have open, and the whites of six eggs whipped to a froth : mix the whole together, pour it into a souffle tin, and bake in an oven at moderate heat. Serve the moment your eye tells you thai the souffle' is ready
Potted prawns.
Potted prawns, home-made, ought to be oftener seen at Madras, than they are. Wnether eaten with cheese, spread on toast, or at office in the form of a sandwich, this preparation is most acceptable. Select some nice sized prawns, boil them, pick out very carefully all the grit, and that black line which runs straight down the back and underneath ever}- prawn : wash them afterwards in cold water, and pour a lot of water over them as they lie on the top of your sieve. When satisfied that you have thoroughly cleaned them, dry them, and toss them in a little melted butter in a frying-pan until they have absorbed the butter; next pass through the mincing machine; pound-them thoroughly in the mortar, and lastly press them through the wire sieve. Season the paste so obtained with salt, white and red pepper, a few drops of anchovy sauce, a little pounded mace, and work the whole together with some nice freshly made butter till thoroughly incorporated : set it in an earthenware jar, and pour a spoonful of melted butter over the surface.
Vanilla souffle.
Fritot de volatile-
This simple dish should be noted :-
Cut up a well grown chicken as if for fricassee : marinade the pieces in salad oil with the juice of a lime, an onion sliced in rings, pepper and salt. Half an hour before serving, take out the onion, and wipe the pieces of chicken on a cloth, then dip them in milk, flour them well, and fry-in plenty of hot fat accelerating the heat during the process. When the pieces are cooked, having been fried a golden yellow colour, pile them on a napkin garnished with crisply fried parsley. A nice sauce should accompany in a boat, bread sauce, poivrade, or Robert.
Nouilles.
Take half a pound of sifted flour; put in on the paste board ; make a hole in the centre of the flour; break three eggs in it; add half an ounce of butter, and a pinch of salt; mix all into a nice smooth paste. Roll the paste out very thin, say about the sixteenth of an inch, let it dry, then cut it into ribbons an inch and a half broad; put five of these ribbons above one another, sprinkling a little flour between each; then with a knife cut through them crosswise, making thin shreds like vermicelli; shake them in a cloth with a little flour to prevent them adhering to one another, then throw them into two quarts of boiling water for six minutes. Use nouilles exactly as you would maccaroni.
 
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