This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
Have a machine of basin or pear shape. The basin-shaped machine should be fifteen inches in diameter by fifteen inches in height and rounded at the bottom, to be provided with a tinned iron rod running through the freezer and fitting into a gear with a pivot below (see Fig. 611). Put the cover on the freezer and pack it in salted ice: remove the cover and pour into the freezer (which contains about thirty quarts,), six quarts of preparation, or the fifth part of its capacity.

Fig. 611.
Fig. 612.
Fig. 613.
Turn the freezer by hand or by steam and detach the composition as fast as it adheres to the sides. As soon as the cream is sufficiently consistent, transfer it to a long freezer packed in salted ice (see how to pack in ice, No. 3432). Several compositions can be frozen one after the other without washing out the freezer, by beginning to freeze the composition containing the least color, and being careful to remove any particles of cream remaining after the operation is finished.
First boil the milk or cream. If with vanilla or white coffee infuse either of these into the milk or cream. Put the yolks or whites of eggs in a tinned basin of sufficient size not to have the mixture rise to over three-quarters of the height of the vessel; add sugar to the yolks or whites, beating it in well with a whisk; then add the boiling milk or cream. Set the basin on a slow tire or in a bain-marie; stir continuously with the spatula until the composition be of a sufficient thickness to cover this spatula, which will occur a few moments before it begins to boil; remove it from the fire or bain-marie and then strain through a Venice or plated copper wire sieve; stir occasionally while cooling and freeze when thoroughly cold. For cooked ice cream be careful to select only the freshest eggs and milk; the most important point to be observed in these creams is to have the eggs cooked, allowing them to proceed as far as possible without actually boiling, then pour quickly through a sieve and stir steadily until most of the heat is lost.
 
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