This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
Pick out a leg with a short handle bone, and very rounded at its thickest part, having a thin transparent skin and covered with white fat near the tail. Let it hang as long as possible to be tender. When it is required for use, pare nicely, remove the aitchbone, saw off the knuckle and make a handle two inches long; scrape the bone very white. Lay the leg on the spit thrusting the split in near the end bone, letting it come out at the loin bone, then cover over with sheets of well buttered paper. One hour and twenty minutes before serving, lay it in front of the fire, baste often, when nearly cooked salt over. Just when ready to serve withdraw the spit, dress and pour over some clear gravy (No. 404); trim the end bone with a paper frill (No. 10). Serve separately a sauce-boatful of clear gravy (No. 404).
Saw off the handle of the leg below the knuckle bone; insert a piece of garlic near the handle, then lay the meat in a baking pan: pour some good drippings and water over and roast it in the oven, adding a little more water every time the fat clarities in order to prevent it burning; when cooked, dress the leg, surrounding it with large olive-shaped potatoes cooked with butter in a slow oven and baste the leg with the gravy, serving the remainder in a sauce-boat. Trim the handle (Fig. 164) with a paper frill (No. 10) or one of silver used for this purpose.
Pound half a pound of chopped fat salt pork with an equal quantity of cooked ham, bread-crumbs, two eggs, a finely shredded shallot, previously fried in butter, parsley, and a tiny bit of crushed garlic; cut some thin slices of a leg of mutton, flatten to three-sixteenths of an inch, pare to two inch squares, season them with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and cover one side with the prepared forcemeat, roll them up and run a skewer through each; dip them into melted butter, roll in breadcrumbs, and broil over a slow fire to attain a good color, then dress them on a puree of white beans ( No. 706), with a little clear gravy (No. 404) poured over the whole.
Bone a leg of mutton; remove the aitchbone and the large bone as far as the joint; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and fill the inside with a pork stuffing as in No. 68, mixing with it half its quantity of boiled and finely chopped ham, as much bread-crumbs as ham, an ounce of chopped onion, a clove of crushed and chopped garlic, and two egg-yolks. Sew up the leg so as to secure the forcemeat enclosed therein. Melt half a pound of fat pork, fry the leg in it. drain off the fat, season, and moisten to three quarters its height with stock (No. 194a), adding to the liquid two medium onions, stuck with two cloves, and four peeled and quartered tomatoes; allow the leg to cook slowly for three hours, then strain off the stock, free it of its fat and take away a third part, returning this to the leg after having untied it. Add to the other two parts, half a pound of Carolina rice and let cook for twenty minutes, then put in some butter and grated cheese, stirring it in with a fork. Dress the leg, glaze it over and decorate the handle bone with a paper frill (No. 10); garnish around with the rice, strain the stock from the leg once more, skim off its fat, reduce to half and serve it in a separate sauce-boat.
 
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