This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
Lunch is a small repast indulged in between breakfast and dinner. This meal is called lunch in English, in French gouter or taste, because it is less heavy than the others, and, as generally very little is eaten, it is only tasted. In France this old custom only exists in country towns where breakfast is very matinal; the English and Americans also lunch, for they breakfast early and only dine toward six or seven o'clock, therefore lunch is an indispensable meal with them. Larger and more ceremonious luncheons are frequently served; these are called "dinner luncheons," and many bills of fare for their preparation will be found later on. For family luncheons there are generally served cold meats, light entrees, sandwiches, pastries, ices, preserves, etc.,
Although set with more simplicity than the dinner table, nothing elegant must be lacking; in the center of the table place a flower decoration, either a double cornicopia, or a boat, or two dossers set back to back, or a vase, or a temple, etc., according to the reason the lunch was offered to the guests. On each side place a piece made of nougat, one of spun sugar, and at each end a high stand on tiers filled with bonbons, Victorias, mottoes, etc.
At eighteen or twenty-four inches from the edge, according to the width of the table, draw a line the same shape as the table and lay on this decanters of white and sherry wines, also water decanters, one for every two persons; two fruit dishes, four containing small fancy cakes, and two of dried fruits. Set semicircular around each plate as many glasses as there are wines; on the right hand lay a card bearing the name,of the guest, and on the left a dress or buttonhole bouquet and the menu standing against the flower vase. Decorate the sideboard with the dessert service; carve the meats near the dining-room, and see that everything is served very hot. Let the wines be of a proper temperature, and specify each one while serving it; as soon as everything is in complete order, open the doors and bow, which means that the lunch is ready, and the guests may assemble in the dining-room to take their places at the seats designated on their cards. The service begins the same as the dinner and continues likewise until the coffee is served, when the ladies retire to the drawing-room to partake of theirs, to listen to music, or to withdraw unceremoniously.
If the lunch should be intended for gentlemen only, suppress all ornamentation except the flowers and fruits; the menu should be more substantial, and if for ladies and gentlemen together, serve the same as for a dinner, observing the same etiquette.
A meat breakfast is composed of broiled meats, cold meat, fish, eggs, croustades, fried dishes, sweets and dessert.
Radishes, celery, olives, anchovies, caviare, sardines, fresh butter, artichokes poivrade, smoked breasts of goose, canapes of ham, gherkins, shrimps, mortadella, cucumbers, Lyons sausage, mackerel in oil, tomatoes and pickles.
Oysters or Little Neck clams.
Broiled - mackerel, shad, smelts, perch, trout, herrings. Fried - codfish, fillets of flounders, whitebait, frost fish. Baked - sheepshead, bass, English soles, redsnapper, kingfish. Boiled - salmon, grouper, halibut, skate, cod's tongues. Sauted - weakfish, lobsters, mussels, bluefish, whitefish.
Omelets, scrambled, fried, poached, boiled soft and hard, soft, moulded or on a dish.
Broiled - pig's feet, sausages, blood sausages, sliced venison. Fried - chicken, tendons of lamb, crawfish cutlets. Sauted - tripe, chicken, kidneys, tournedos, calf's liver.
Baked - sweetbreads, lamb chops in papers, quails, pigeons in eases.
Braized - calf's head, sheep's trotters, grenadins of veal.
Broiled - porterhouse steak, sirloin steak, tenderloin of beef, veal, mutton and lamb chops.
Game pie, terrine of goose-livers (foies-gras.)
Boned duck, chicken mayonnaise.
Game or broiled or roast poultry, with green salad.
If so far no eggs have been mentioned in the bill of fare, then fruit or spirituous omelets of all kinds may l>e served, or else Celestine omelet, snow souffle, etc., but in case eggs have already been used, then diversify the bill of fare by giving fritters, crusts, pancakes, pears, apples, peaches, etc. Have also pies, tarts and cakes as well as cheese and fresh fruit.
Coffee and Liquors.
 
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