This section is from the "The French Cook" book, by Louis Eustache. Also see Amazon: The French Cook.
Take some young partridges, which empty, and truss as in No. 1; dip the breasts into boiling water; when made firm, dip them immediately in cold water: next lard them with thin slits of bacon; mark them in a stew-pan with slices of fat bacon all round only, pour a little poele or any other liquid, enough to immerse about one half of the birds. Have a brisk fire over them to seize the bacon; when they have been stewed for twenty minutes glaze them, and probe them near the back; if no blood issues, it is a sign that they are done enough. Drain them, glaze them a second time, and send them up with a ragout a la financiere.
Truss the birds as in No. 1; instead of butter, stuff them with chopped truffles and rasped bacon, seasoned with salt, pepper, and allspice: then cut small pieces of truffles in the shape of nails; make holes with a penknife in the breasts of the birds, widen the holes with a skewer and fill them with the truffles; let them b ed in very regularly. Then mark them as in No. 1. are to be stewed also in the same manner. Serve under them an Italienne with truffles.
N.B. - Take care to drain them well, otherwise the fat will spoil both the taste and look of the sauce.
This is nearly the same as the foregoing dish, only instead of using truffles you must lard with small pieces of ham : use the pen-knife to make the holes, as larding-pins would spoil the look of the birds, which are to be served whole. Mark and stew as above, and serve up with the essence of game.
Cut off the claws after having emptied and picked the birds; make a hole below the joint of the leg; the leg inside of the body; singe the birds over the flame till the flesh gets firm; pinch the breast with your left hand, scollop the breasts without quite reaching the skin, turn the flesh over on the table, beat the bird flat, dust it with a little salt and pepper; then dip it twice into clarified batter and crumbs of bread; broil it, and send it up with an Italienne, or essence of game.
* Essence of game is used to give all the flavour of game; you must concentrate the taste, by keeping the vessel in which you make the consomme, hermetically covered: and by not putting too much seasoning, which would cover the flavour of the birds.
In this case you add a decoration to the birds, in the following manner, after having trussed and stewed them as in No. 1. At dinner-time take rings of white onions, let them be stewed white in a little consomme, then take a cutter of the size as the inside of the rings of the onions, cu d pieces of truffles that have been braized with the birds; mind, the truffles must be of a very black colour: (the parings are to be chopped and mixed with the Italienne:) the round pieces of truffles are to be put over the breasts of the birds, three on each side, Mosaic fashion, and the rings of onions round the truffles, and one over the pouch. If the truffles do not stick well, use a little glaze to make them stick, as they are liable to fall off. Do not mask with the sauce, which must be poured into the bottom of the dish; the sauce must be an Italienne with truffles, mix with it a little glaze of game, to give the taste of it.
Do exactly the same thing as in No. 7 ; instead of istening with consomme, use gravy of veal. Sweat the onions in a little butter till they are of a fine brown, then let them boil in a little gravy of veal; they should be of an equal size; give them a good colour. Add truffles and mushrooms, if you have any.
The same process as in No. 29, page 176. (Croquettes of Chickens.) Only add a little glaze of game to the bechamelle. Let the croquettes cool, and dip them into yolks of egg and crumbs of bread, as in No. 29, page 176.
Take the flesh of roasted partridges, which chop and pound in a mortar, with a few spoonfuls of veloute, and a lump of butter: season the whole well. Mix with this puree the yolks of four or five eggs, and strain the whole through a sieve. Then put it into a bason. Beat well the whites of six eggs, which you mix lightly with the puree. Let the whole be put into a dish a souffle, and baked in the oven for twenty minutes ; take care it does not burn at the top, which may be prevented by covering it with paper.
 
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