This section is from the "The French Cook" book, by Louis Eustache. Also see Amazon: The French Cook.
Take a calf's head very white and very fresh, bone the nose part of it; put the head into some warm water to discharge the blood. Squeeze the flesh with your hand, to ascertain that it is all out. Blanch the head in boiling water; when firm, put it into cold water, prepared blanc in the following way to boil it in: cut half a pound of fat bacon, a pound of beef suet, an onion stuck with a clove, and two slices of lemon; put all this into a vessel, with water enough to contain the head; boil the head in this, and leave it in to cool, then make the sauce in the following manner.
Put into a stew-pan a pound of ham cut in slices, put over the ham two knuckles of veal, a large onion, and two carrots, moisten with some of the broth in which you have boiled the head, to half the depth of the meat only, cover the stew-pan, and put it over the fire to sweat through, let the broth reduce to a very good colour, turn up the meat, for fear of burning. When you have a very good colour, moisten with the whole broth from the head, season with a large bundle of sweet herbs, viz. sweet basil, sweet mar-joram, lemon thyme, common thyme, two cloves, a bay-leaf, a few allspice, parsley, and green onions, and a few mushrooms ; let this boil together for one hour, then drain it. Put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of very fresh butter, let it melt over a slow fire; put to this butter as much flour as it can receive; let it go gently over a slow fire, till the flour has acquired a very good brown colour; moisten this gradually with the broth, till you have employed it all; add half a bottle of Sherry or Madeira; let the sauce boil, that the flour may be well done ; take off all the scum and fat; cut the calf's head into square pieces of about an inch each; put them to boil in the sauce ; season with salt, Cayenne pepper, and lemon-juice, and add some quenelles. - (See farce a quenelle).
Observe, that you must not have the quenelles, too delicate, for they would break in the soup, and spoil the look of it; the calf's head must not be too much done; thrust your knife into the skin, and if the knife enters and detaches itself easily, the meat is done enough. Some gentlemen will have their mock turtle green; in that case, you must do as follows: put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound, of fresh butter, mince one onion or two, add a handful of each of the herbs described above, and sweat it all gently over a slow fire. When the herbs are well done, moisten with some of the. sauce, and rub it through a tammy; lastly, mix this with the sauce, and the turtle will be green, without any alteration in the flavour.
Boil some Naples macaroni in water, salt, and; butter. When it is done, put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of butter, some rasped Parmesan cheese, some Gruyere or Swiss cheese likewise, a little pepper, and a spoonful of cream. Then drain the macaroni, and toss it till the cheese be well mixed with it; then pour it into a dish; sprinkle some rasped cheese over it, baste it with a little butter, and use the salamander to make it brown, for the butter would turn to oil if you were to bake it in the oven.
These may be served without any other meat; but they may also serve as a sauce for tendons either of veal or of lamb, members of fowl, and giblets of turkey. It is to be observed, however, that those articles which are served in a deep dish, must be cut up, as you could not carve them in so much liquid. Take some bacon, the breast part, cut about an inch square, boil it in water to extract the salt, then fry it in a little butter till it is of a fine brown. Next handle some fine peas and a little fresh butter in cold water. After having drained them, put them into a stew-pan with the bacon, and a bunch of parsley and green onions. Let the whole sweat over a slow fire. When nearly done, moisten with two or three spoonfuls of Espagnole and a little sugar. Boil them a few minutes. Send up either with or without any other meat.
 
Continue to: