No meat requires more careful cooking than roast veal. Any meat more insipid than plain unsavory veal is not to be imagined. The less condiment there is about roast beef or mutton the better, but veal requires a great deal.

The handsomest joint of veal is the fillet, as the part of the leg from which the cutlet is cut is called. Take a piece about five pounds; remove the bone in the centre, fill it with veal forcemeat (see recipe); also make a pocket with your finger between the skin and the flesh and lay forcemeat in it. Skewer the veal; bind it firmly into a round shape, and flour it; cover it with very thin slices of fat pork; set it on a wire stand in a dripping-pan and put it in a moderate oven. Veal requires very thorough cooking and will take half an hour to the pound. Therefore great care must be taken that it does not burn before it comes out of the oven; it should be often basted, and be a bright, dark brown all over. If pork is objected to, spread butter over it before putting it in the oven.

Just before it is taken out make half a pint of butter sauce (see recipe). Then place the meat on a platter; take away all the bits of pork, set the dripping-pan on the stove and pour the sauce into it, send it round with your spoon into every part till all the glaze or hardened gravy is dissolved and the whole a nice brown. Remove the strings and skewers from the meat and pour a little of the brown gravy round it; serve the rest in a tureen. Garnish with cut lemon.