This section is from the book "Pot-Pourri From A Surrey Garden", by C. W. Earle. Also available from Amazon: Pot-pourri from a Surrey Garden.
This is the great Apple time. All the windfalls that take place in September and October we collect, and either eat or stew down into Apple jelly. It is very useful through the winter in many ways, and injured Apples never keep.
Quince jam and jelly we also find good. This is an old-fashioned receipt:-First boil the Quinces till soft, for about half an hour; take off the outer thin skin. Cut the Quinces in half, removing the core, and pulp them. To every pound of Quince pulp add half a pint of the water in which the Quinces were boiled. Peel carefully and cut up some Blenheim Apples; add half a pound of Apples to every pound of Quince pulp, and three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every pound of fruit. Boil for three hours.
We find the ripe Beans of the Scarlet Runners very good if well boiled, and then served with a little of the water and a good bit of fresh butter stirred in just before dishing up. Many years ago Mr. Bright, in the 'Lancashire Garden; wrote: 'One excellent vegetable I have generally grown I would recommend to anyone who has space to spare-the French White Haricot. It is not often seen with us, though it is so very common in France. It is a species of French Bean, of which you eat the white bean itself instead of slicing up the pod. I suspect that, taking England through, there are very few gardens where the White Haricot is found.' This was true nearly twenty years ago, but the astonishing thing is that it is true still. It is wonderful how rarely the Haricot blanc is to be seen at English tables. Is this the fault of the gardener or the cook ? I suspect both. It is very disheartening to grow vegetables the cook does not know how to use. English housekeepers, so extravagant about many things, are often curiously economical on the subject of butter. To use that horrid, fatty, adulterated stuff called 'kitchen butter' with vegetables is fatal; it must be good fresh butter. There are only two economies that generally rather wasteful people try to practise-one is in coals, and the other is in butter. Neither makes much difference in the year, and many other things could be so well done without. Compared to the expense of wine and meat, they are really nothing at all. Vegetables should not be cooked in butter except when really fried; they should be boiled, and drained, and warmed up, and cold butter stirred in just before serving. Vegetables should not look or taste greasy, or rice either.
In the autumn those who keep fowls always have some to get rid of that are better stewed than roasted. The following is an old family receipt I have not seen elsewhere:Poulet a la Turque.-Truss a chicken as for boiling, put it in a deep fricandeau-pan, spread it thickly with butter, and lay therein a dozen pieces of raw ham, some carrots, onions, parsley, and a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt; cover with a buttered paper. Braize it for one hour. When it is dished, place round the chicken in groups stewed rice, sultanas, and prunes. Pour a lightly seasoned curry sauce over the chicken, and serve more sauce in a sauce-boat apart, if desirable-especially if there are two chickens.
People who have a good deal of game get rather tired of the eternally roast pheasant or partridge with bread sauce. The following is a good receipt to make a variety:Partridge or Pheasant a la Sierra Morena.Take a brace of partridges properly trussed. Cut into dice 1 inch thick a little less than \ lb. of bacon, put them into the stew-pan; cut 2 large onions in quarters, take 6 whole black peppers, a little salt, 1 bay-leaf, a \ gill of vinegar, 1 gill of port wine, 1 gill of water, 1 table-spoonful of salad oil. Put all these ingredients into the stew-pan with half a sheet of kitchen paper; stew on a slow fire for 2 hours. Then take out the partridges and dish them, and put round some of the quarters of onions which have been stewed, pass the gravy through a sieve, and send to table.
Just now the greengrocers' shops in town and country are full of very cheap large melons brought from abroad. I find they make a very good compote if the hard outside is taken off and the pulp cut into pieces the size of a plum. Make a syrup of sugar flavoured with the melon-peel, spice, bay-leaf, and a little powdered ginger; boil this up, and pour it over the pieces of melon.
Turnips are often strong and hard with us. This year they are delicious, and we have had a very pretty dish-much appreciated-of small round Turnips boiled tender, and served with a white sauce made of milk boiled till it thickens, into which has been stirred a little butter and cream.
Carrots, too, are delicious done in this way with the addition of a little parsley and sugar.
The following is a good cake:-The weight in flour of four eggs; butter, sugar, rind of lemon grated, a few Sultanas, and citron; beat to a cream; then add the yelk of each egg, one by one; then add the flour, and beat the white of the eggs to a froth just before putting it into the oven. Bake for half an hour in a flat tin dish.
 
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