485. Mullets, A La Chesterfield

"When the mullets are trimmed, put them into a buttered sauta-pan with half a bottle of dry Champagne, some essence of mushrooms and a little pepper and salt; bake them in the oven, taking care to baste them frequently; when done, glaze and dish them up, reduce their liquor, and add to it some bisque of crayfish sauce, previously prepared as follows: -

Thoroughly wash and draw the gall from two dozen crayfish, put them into a stewpan with a small quantity of carrot and celery cut fine, one shalot, half a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and some parsley; moisten with the remaining half-bottle of Champagne; boil the crayfish, and when done, remove the shells from the claws and tails, reserving the shells for the purpose of making crayfish butter afterward (No. 184). Next, pound the bodies, tails, and claws in the mortar, take the produce up into a stewpan, moisten with a large ragout spoonful of good Allemande sauce, and after warming the puree over the fire, rub it through a tammy in the usual manner; remembering that it must be kept sufficiently thick to be able to mask the fish with it. Then reduce the liquor in which the mullets and crayfish have been dressed to half a glaze, and incorporate a sufficient quantity of it with the bisque, to give it flavor; add a pat of lobster or crayfish butter, made with the shells reserved for this purpose, a little essence of anchovies and lemon-juice; pour the sauce over the mullets, and garnish them round with a border of quenelles of whiting, colored with chopped and blanched parsley, and some small fillets of soles contises with truffles : place them alternately overlapping each other. The fillets of soles after being conlises with truffles, should be turned round and placed in a sauta-pan with some fresh butter, previously to being simmered.

Note. - Mullets should never be drawn ; it is sufficient to take out the gills only, as the liver and trail are considered the best parts of this fish. According to Yarrell's History of British Fishes, there are two distinct species of red mullets: the one is called the striped red, the other the plain red mullet, the former being the sort generally exposed for sale by the London fishmongers. Mr. Yarrell also informs us, that the generic term mullus, from which their name is derived, is said to have reference to the scarlet color of the sandal or shoe worn by the Roman Consuls, and in later times by the Emperors - which was called mullus. It would seem that in those days, the almost incredible price of £240 was given for three mullets of large size.

Gray Mullets should be dressed in the same manner as red mullets; they are sometimes plain boiled or broiled, and sent to table with any of the various fish sauces in use: but this fish, from its want of flavor, especially requires the assistance of the most skillful cookery.

ThE Grayling is seldom seen in the London market, although, from its claims to the notice of epicures, it certainly deserves to be better known ; when dressed in the manner described for the preparation of mullets or whitings, it will be found deserving a higher estimation than has hitherto been accorded to it. This fish is in season in the months of October and November.

Whiting Poult, which in shape somewhat resembles perch, and in color is like the whiting, having when fresh much of its silvery hue, is found to be in best condition during the months of November and December, although they are sometimes taken in the spring of the year. Partaking in a great measure of the same character as the grayling, it should, like that fish, be prepared for table in a similar manner to red mullets. The same method is also to be used in dressing gwynniad, a species of lake fish, commonly found in Wales, Cumberland, and some parts of Ireland and Scotland.