This section is from the book "The Modern Cook: A Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in All Its Branches", by Charles Elme Francatelli. Also available from Amazon: The Modern Cook: A Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in All Its Branches.
These should be trussed, roasted, and served in the same manner as pheasants. Sometimes, for the sake of variety, both pheasants and partridges are larded in the same way as sweetbreads, but the practice is not generally liked.
Draw and truss these in the manner directed for pheasants; cut some thin square layers of fat bacon, just large enough to cover a quail, spread a vine-leaf over each of these, cut it to their size, and then tie them neatly on the breasts of the quails. Run an iron skewer through the quails, fasten this on to a spit, and roast them before a brisk fire, fur about a quarter of an hour, then dish them up with water-cresses round them, glaze the layers of bacon, pour some gravy under the quails, and serve.
These birds must not be drawn, neither do they require much trussing, being very plump; a small wooden skewer should be run through the thighs and pinions, with a string passed round it, and fastened ; cover these also with a layer of bacon and a vine-leaf, run them upon a lark-spit, and roast them before a brisk fire for about twenty minutes, frequently basting them with butter, and set some toasted bread under them, to receive their droppings. When done, dish them up on square pieces of the toast, garnish with water-cresses, pour some gravy under them, and serve the following sauce separately in a boat: - A ragout-spoonful of good butter-sauce (No. 70), a piece of glaze, Cayenne pepper, and lemon-juice.
Ortolans and Wheatears are served in the same manner as the foregoing.
Cut off the heads and legs, and pick out the gizzards at the sides with the point of a small knife; season with chopped parsley, pepper and salt, and nutmeg; rub the larks over with beaten yolks of eggs, bread-crumb them, sprinkle them with clarified butter, and roll them in bread-crumbs a second time; then run them on a lark-spit; fasten this on a common spit, and roast them before a very brisk fire, for about a quarter of an hour, basting them with fresh butter melted in a spoon before the fire. When done, dish them up in rows, or in a circle, fill the centre with bread-crumbs fried of a light-brown color in a sautapan with butter, and serve them with the sauce recommended for ruffs and reeves.
These are both trussed and roasted in the same manner. First, pick them entirely, neck and head, then twist the legs at the joints, so as to bring the feet down upon the thighs; run their bill through the thighs and body, and fasten a noose with string round the bend of the joints, across the lower part of the breast; bring both ends round the head and tip of the bill, and fasten it on the back. Cover the woodcocks with layers of bacon, and tie these round with string; roast them before the fire, for about five-and-twenty minutes, frequently basting them with butter or dripping; place some toasted bread under the birds, to receive the droppings from the trail, and when they are done, dish them up with a piece of the toast under each, and water-cresses round them. Serve some extract of woodcocks (No. 173) separately, in a boat.
 
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