This section is from the book "Food And Feeding", by Sir Henry Thompson. Also available from Amazon: Food And Feeding.
Briefly, the rule, by general gastronomic consent, for those who indulge in the luxury of wine, is to offer a glass of light pale sherry or dry Sauterne after soup; a delicate Rhine wine or Moselle after fish; a glass of good Bordeaux with the joint of mutton; the same, or champagne - dry, but with some true vinous character in it, and not the tasteless spirit and water which not long since enjoyed an evanescent popularity as absolute brut - during the entries; the best red wine in the cellar, Bordeaux or Burgundy, with the grouse or other roast game; and - but this ought to suffice, even for that exceptional individual who is supposed to be little, if at all, injured by "moderate" potations. With the ice or dessert, a glass of full-flavoured but matured champagne, or a liqueur, may be served; but at this point dietetic admonitions are out of place, and we have already sacrificed to luxury. But it is not to be forgotten that both temperance and digestion are favoured by the habit of avoiding much mixing of red and white, or indeed of any wines at our meals. Men have discovered for themselves that choice dry champagne, although of high character, developed by seven to ten years, or sometimes longer residence in bottle, and the finest growth of Bordeaux matured to perfection, however delightful each may prove itself in passing over the palate, often quarrel sadly when they arrive in the stomach below. Hence the somewhat modern, and certainly prudent course, which many now follow, viz. to drink either the one or the other wine throughout the dinner, and to limit one's self to that only. And this makes it necessary to supply, as before intimated, the best produce of the cellar during the whole course of the dinner, instead of reserving it, as in days of yore, for consumption afterwards.
 
Continue to: