On looking through the foregoing menus, it may be observed that the most substantial dish has been placed next after the fish, and that it is followed by the entre'e, after which comes the "roast," which in its turn is followed by the choice vegetable served apart. Those who prefer the entree before the substantial dish, can so arrange it; but whenever the latter happens to be roasted, as may sometimes be the case, it interferes most undesirably, by juxtaposition with the "roast" proper. This error may then be to some extent corrected by placing the choice vegetable between the two, i.e. before the "roast" proper instead of after it; and this course should be taken whenever the first-named change is made.

* A smooth puree of the red part of the carrot; the basis being a clear bouillon, thickened with tapioca.-Dubois. + A consomme of fowl, elegantly garnished.-Dubois, p. 443. + See p. 176.

Art in arranging Dishes.

In all cases, too, there should be a marked difference in the material and culinary treatment of any two consecutive dishes; thus it is obviously undesirable that one white (or brown) preparation should follow another; a quenelle of veal, for example, after a boiled sole; or that a salmi of game should precede a roast pullet. It may be observed that white and brown meats and sauces mostly alternate, that grills and braises contrast; that a delicate white entree successfully introduces the roast, that when the latter is substantial, as a haunch of venison, or a saddle of mutton, the preceding entree may be less important; and so on. As a rule, to which there are a few exceptions, the procession of dishes after the fish is from the substantial to the more delicate; after which the appetite is stimulated by contrasts. Thus, the piquant flavour of the roast, with its "taste of the fire," is welcome, being sometimes followed by the soft and succulent vegetable, the young peas or stewed celery, or the globe artichoke, preparing the palate for a slice of highly-cured ham, tongue, or Westphalian goose-breast, with a delicate scent of pure wood smoke. On the whole, perhaps, this latter is practically most welcome after the entries, and before the choice vegetable preceding "the roast," the place of which is then last before the sweet. The final impression must, of course, be a savoury one, which the palate receives, being thus rendered "clean," prepared to rest - or perchance to relish the last glass of wine by the delicate savoury morsel which terminates the menu.

Effects of contrast.

Proceed by steps from delicate flavours to the piquant.

I desire to ask special attention to the fact that numerous popular dishes have been omitted - and purposely so - from these menus, simply for the reason that they are well known, and can therefore be adopted at pleasure by way of addition or exchange. Thus, none of the joints, such as sirloins, rounds, haunches, saddles, loins, shoulders, etc., have been named, with perhaps a single exception only. Everybody is familiar with English joints, which have been on this account excluded from a list necessarily so restricted as the limits of only thirty-two menus demand. For the same reason, I have not included in them turtle in any form, nor curries; nor such special soups as mock - turtle, mulligatawny, hodgepodge, split-pea,* giblet, water-souchets, and fish soups; nor whitebait, nor the fresh-water fish, carp, tench, dace, pike, etc.; nor among sweets, tarts, ices, sorbets, and the farinaceous puddings, custards, etc., nor have I named the preliminary oysters, which may well be added during the season, September to April inclusive, as an additional luxury. My object has been to suggest a few of the leading smaller dishes of a comparatively simple and not expensive kind, and to place them in proper juxtaposition in relation to each other, so far as this has been possible, with the view of suggesting some little diversity in the dietary of our better middle-class tables. Almost every one also is more or less typical in its character, so that given the knowledge of preparing it, several minor varieties can be produced. At the same time, such dishes are unpretentious, and do not demand the skill of a rare expert; yet, when really well executed, they offer results not to be surpassed by any, either in relation to refined tastes, or in wholesome and nourishing qualities, in relation to the powers of the stomach and the wants of the system. To the remark regarding an estimate of the expense just made, I admit two or, at most, three exceptions, of which the chapon truffe is the most obvious example. And it is not suggested, moreover, that this should be prepared at home, but obtained only during the season of fresh truffles from France; stuffed on its native soil with native produce, it forms a very important addition to a dinner, and stamps it with a rare distinction. There is no difficulty in procuring truffled poultry of any size by rail direct from Paris, when the indulgence of a little extravagance introducing simple dishes less used than they deserve to be.

* Our common split-pea soup, wholesome and agreeable in winter, with dried mint and tiny croutons, is wholly unknown in France; the dried green peas, termed pais casses, only are used for similar purposes there.

Have omitted the most familiar dishes, such as ' 'joints," "turtle," "special soups," and fish, oysters, etc., to save needless menu writing;

Dishes omitted; Reason given.

Remarks on "chapon truffe," is to be permitted; but even this trouble is not necessary, since a few first-rate London poulterers import fresh truffles, and will furnish a fine Dorking fowl properly stuffed, the quantity used determining in any case the cost of the dish.*

I have somewhere before said that the fresh truffle is so immeasurably superior to those preserved in bottles, that the latter appears to me scarcely worth eating, except for their agreeable nutty texture; and, mainly by virtue of the law which operates through the association of ideas, for the memory of delicious flavour and subtle aroma, existing only when the truffle is fresh, as during its term of harvest, about ten or twelve weeks after the end of November. I refer, of course, only to the French growth, superior as it is by many degrees to our own, and to that of North Italy also.+ For those who have not eaten and appreciated the fresh truffle, it appears to me that eating them when preserved is more the result of fashion, than of much gratification derived from the act. Something of the same kind may be said of caviare. Once eaten in its freshest and finest condition, say in Moscow, and the black herring - flavoured, small - seeded caviare, commonly found here, becomes uneatable. But the pale grey and fresher kind does, to a satisfactory extent, recall the delicious qualities of the best Russian product when fresh. And this latter may sometimes be found at Berlin, a distance it can reach by rail without injury.* emphasizing the change. The mode of preserving the truffle recently adopted, in air - tight tins instead of the well - known thick bottles - so contrived as to look large, and to hold but a few ounces - is far more successful than these in preserving the fine scent and nut - like texture of the tuber. Cobbett, of Pall Mall, and Morel, of Piccadilly, have effected this improvement. But during the short winter season of the fres/i truffle, each receives a direct supply by rail from the Perigord district at least three or four times a week.

* No better names could be mentioned than those of Chevet, of the Palais Royal, and Bailey, of Mount Street, Grosvenor Square.

The French truffle - truffe noir, is a subterraneous fungus, of the species "Tuber." T. melanosporum is found in the woods, chiefly beneath the shade of the oak, in the neighbourhood of Perigueux and of Angouleme. The British truffle, T. aestivum, found mostly in beech woods, is in season in the course of the summer, when it may be found in Covent Garden; but even when fresh is greatly inferior to the French variety in scent and flavour.

+ The above, written some eight or ten years ago, accurate as it then was, represents a condition now considerably improved, and I leave the text, adding this note for the purpose of and upon truffles.

Notes about Truffles; Caviare.

* It may be added also, that a fairly good, not highly salted, caviare is now less difficult to procure than it formerly was, thanks to increased facilities for rapid transit. It should be obtained as soon after arrival here as possible, in time for immediate use.

Caviare.