This section is from the book "Food Facts For The Home-Maker", by Lucile Stimson Harvey. Also available from Amazon: Food facts for the home-maker.
Smelts, after being washed, dried, and sprinkled with salt and pepper, are dipped into milk, then rolled in flour. The head and tail are pinned together with a small skewer, or wooden toothpick (to be removed after they are fried), making them into rings. This is a pretty way for serving the smelts, either by themselves or for garnishing other fish dishes. Cook only as many as will cover the bottom of the frying-basket at one time. Dress the smelts on a folded napkin, and serve with mayonnaise or with tartare sauce.
Clean and wash the smelts. Wipe them dry, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Dip in melted butter and bread crumbs. Arrange them on a buttered baking-pan, and bake 15 minutes in a quick oven. Serve with Bearnaise sauce.
 
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