As most things can be judged only by comparison, I was led last spring to obtain all varieties of tomatoes. In many cases it was found that the so-called new varieties were only new names for old friends. After much correspondence and inquiry, there was obtained what were presumably eighty varieties. Some varieties at maturity could not be distinguished from those obtained from other parties under different names, and in many cases the fruit, when shown all together, might not be easily distinguished, but the same while growing, in habit, bearing, quality, flavor and solidity were readily separated.

My experience in growing tomatoes has been that we get the earliest fruit on light soil with but little manure; the crop will be less and sooner over, although the first few pickings for market may bring a price that will overbalance the larger crop which may be raised on heavier and highly manured soil. For marketing, two plantings are usually made, one as early as can safely be done in frames, the other in open ground. I have had success and failure by planting directly in the hill where the plants are to grow. The last way is precarious, on account of the black flea-beetle destroying the young plants, and one may lose the whole crop in a couple of hot days before he is aware the little nuisance is around.

In setting out plants, a cloudy day is preferable, when the ground is fairly damp, but not wet. Let the roots be grouted or "puddled" in a mixture of good, rich, fine dirt, stirred in water until it will adhere to the roots. It is always preferable to have the plants stocky and to transplant in the frames, but that requires room. Although some of our Station bulletins have said that a "leggy " tomato plant is of little use, I must differ from them, if I am allowed to set the plants. Such plants are not to be planted the ordinary manner, for they will surely be scalded by the first sun ; but put the roots at the side of the hill and bury the stalk to the top leaves. In a few days the whole stalk will be a mass of roots, and the plant will grow vigorously and will do equally well with plants that are more stocky. To be sure, it is a little more work to set such plants, but it will pay to take a little more time if the plants have become drawn In transplanting I always use a mason's pointing-trowel. The plants are either dropped ahead of the setter or he takes a handful in his left hand. The trowel is thrust in and a pull towards the setter opens the ground ; at the same time the plant is put in and a slight pressure of the foot firms the soil.

With a little practice this is done very rapidly, and to me it is much better and easier than planting with a dibble.

After this digression, I will give the results of my study of varieties. There were planted the last week of March in a house that had but little heat, eighty varieties of to-matoes, a few kinds a few days later. When the first four leaves had developed, all were pricked out in plots spaced two inches apart, where they grew until the 9th of May. Two new varieties that were highly recommended were put in the same time that the others were set, in pots, to give them a better chance, and they made a little more growth. All were set on the same day, the 9th of May. The ground was slightly rolling, a sandy loam, one with sandy depression, and one quite heavy loam. The sandy depression seemed to force the fruit, and the latter to retard the ripening.

Our past summer was one of successive rains and the temperature was below the average. August was mostly dry and rather hot. That seemed to crack many varieties. September 10th was opened with a five days' rain and very high winds, blowing the plants about and whipping the leaves almost off some of them. The day before the rain a small box of each kind was secured, and placed on shelves in the barn to try their staying qualities. It is certain that with drier weather different results would have been shown. To determine the longest time fruit would keep, I should pick green fruit earlier in the season, but fruit of each lot, in this case, was as nearly alike in all respects as could be had. It is a noteworthy fact that all of the purple or Acme color were the first to rot.

Horsford's Prelude

First blooms, June nth. First ripe fruit, July 29th, 122 days from seed. Smooth, free from cracks, quality good; fruitful; too small for general market, but desirable as to earliness and long continuance in bearing. Kept 12 days.

Livingston's Potato Leaf

Ripe in 134 days. Large and solid, some wrinkled, cracked and yellow at stem, badly rotted in rain; productive. Kept 5 days.

Early New Jersey

Ripe in 128 days. Bright crimson, a good bearer; large, smooth, solid, and of good quality ; cracked some in rain. Kept 7 days.

Early Richmond

Not desirable. Not early.

Improved Yellow

Ripe in 128 days. Good bearer, holding a long time; a distinct orange color, mild and insipid flavor; no cracking. Kept 12 days.

Ivory Ball (White Apple)

Ripe August 9th - 140 days. Small creamy white, mild flavor, great bearer and the longest keeper of all. The rains had no effect on it. Kept 34 days. Of no great value, but mentioned here because of its great staying qualities.

Extra Early Advance

The same as Horsford's Prelude, so far as I could see.

Volunteer

Ripe in 125 days. A heavy crop of fine, bright colored fruit; quality first-rate, solid ; bore a long time, cracked a little in rain. Kept 19 days.

Peach

Ripe in 128 days. Small fruit, borne in great abundance and a long time. Has somewhat the color and touch of the peach; flavor mild and sweetish, but no peach flavor. Of little value, except as a novelty; never cracks. Kept 14 days.

Climax

Ripe in 125 days. Good bearer, smooth and solid; cracked but little until the long rain, when all cracked and rotted, as all of the same color did. It kept 7 days, the longest of any of its color.