No plants are more suitable for indoor culture than ferns, and few are more popular. Those who have not had much experience in their treatment will not object to a few hints.

There are two methods by which ferns may be cultivated, viz., in the open fernery or in closed cases ; but before adverting to either, it may be advisable to give a few directions for raising ferns from spores.

The German gardeners take a piece of turfy peat, about an inch and a-half square ; this they dip in boiling water in order to destroy all animal life which it may contain ; it is then laid in a flat saucer, and the spores are sprinkled on the upper side. A small quantity of water is poured into the saucer and the whole is then covered with a bell glass. A little water should be added from time to time to compensate for evaporation, but great care must be taken to pour it in without washing the spores from the turf. In five or six weeks the young ferns will appear in the form of a green, moss-like substance covering the surface of the peat. It is a curious fact that fern spores which have been gathered and kept dry for several years will, when sown, germinate more readily than fresh spores. Some persons employ porous sandstone instead of peat, to which, however, there is the objection that fungus germs often prevent the development of the spores. Fine cinders, when fresh, contain no fungi, and a mixture of these and fine light soil answers the purpose even better than peat, since good drainage is afforded, and this is very necessary.

The cultivation of ferns in the open air demands but little attention. A shady situation, if possible, in the vicinity of a pool or stream, will grow almost any ferns, provided the soil is light and porous, and well drained. Ferns may be grown in pots with great success. The common deep stone flower-pots serve the purpose quite well if they are glazed or painted to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture.

The rock-loving species are best grown in a mixture of broken bricks, old mortar and sandy loam. They should receive a plentiful supply of moisture during summer.

Many species are impatient of moisture about their crowns, so that it is a good plan to keep the crowns elevated to the level, or a little above the level of the pot. We have found that all the plants which require transferring to larger pots, an operation which becomes essential every year or two, will thrive best if transferred in early spring.

The form of a fern case may be accommodated to individual taste. As an outline for the general structure of such a case, we take a strong wooden box, 30 inches in length, 17 inches wide, and 5 inches deep. Cover it well, inside with pitch or coal tar, and outside with paint. At one end and on a level with the bottom insert a small wooden plug. This will allow any superfluous water to be drawn off, should such accumulation occur. Lay on the bottom one inch of any drainage material, then fill nearly level with light fibrous soil. In this the ferns may be arranged. The glass covering should never fit down tightly on or around the box so as entirely to exclude the air, which when not allowed to circulate freely gives the glass a steamy, clouded appearance.

It is by no means essential that an elaborate case should be constructed at great expense to cultivate a few ferns. For a few cents a very respectable cottage fernery may be established.

Nor is it at all necessary to keep living rooms at a high temperature in order to have a cheerful window of these plants in winter. Many of them are hardy evergreens, and flourish most luxuriantly when the ground is frozen around their stems.

Window ferneries should not be exposed to the direct rays of the sun even in winter. A north window is a good position for a case ; yet we have found almost invariably, by observing ferns in their native haunts, that they were more luxuriant where exposed chiefly to light from the northwest. - Mrs. J. T. Power. Kentucky.