As a useful flowering-plant during winter, spring, and summer, this plant should be grown where only the most limited collection of plants can be accommodated. A well-grown plant will not fail to produce hundreds of its delicate pure-white flowers over a long period of time, especially if a little pinching of the shoots is attended to at intervals while growth is being made. Fortunately its flowers are fragrant, which alone should render it as popular as the Gardenia - an evergreen plant it much resembles, both in appearance and in its cultural requirements. It is unquestionably one of the most useful stove-plants that can be grown where button-holes and bouquets are largely in demand. This plant is seldom seen figuring in the exhibition-tent, yet it is worthy of extended cultivation for that purpose; and I am inclined to believe, if employed for exhibiting, it would soon occupy a foremost position. Certainly its blooms do not last long individually, but the succession in which they are produced would more than balance the deficiency in that respect. Another objection I have heard raised against it is, that it will not open sufficient flowers at any one time to render it attractive; but this is a mistake, as sufficient can be produced to give to the plant a white appearance.

I have at the time of writing a plant nearly 4 feet through, literally covered with fully expanded flowers, and hundreds yet to open. Tabernaemontanas can be retarded and kept back for a long time if not wanted to bloom until later in the season; but this must be done by keeping them in a few degrees lower temperature during winter, and avoiding pushing them forward into growth during the early part of the year. They can easily be trained to make growth either early or late, and thus produce masses of bloom so as to suit the different requirements of various cultivators.

Propagation is effected by means of cuttings, which root freely at almost any season of the year, from the young or half-ripened wood. In the latter condition they are preferable; and no better time can be selected than towards the end of the present month, or beginning of next. The cuttings can be either inserted singly in thumb-pots, or round the sides of a 5-inch pot, which should be well drained and filled with sandy peat, with a good dash of silver sand over the surface. When inserted they should be well watered, and, if possible, plunged into bottom - heat, and covered with a bell-glass or placed in the propagating-frame. They will root readily enough without bottom-heat if kept close and shaded from the sun, but not quite so quickly. When well rooted, they should be placed into 2 or 3 inch pots, and grown in the shade until established. Under the shade of Cucumbers and Melons is a capital place for them. If well rooted and established in the small pots before winter, a vigorous start can be made the following year, and much valuable time saved when good-sized plants are required quickly.

I have always found it advantageous to get an early start in the season, and push forward as rapidly as possible consistent with the nature of the plants to be grown, when large ones are required in as short a space of time as possible. If once checked, or left to look after themselves from time to time, instead of obtaining a rapid growth, it takes a much longer time, if ever a good plant is produced. This applies with equal force to the majority of plants. The small plants should not be allowed to flower when specimens are the object, so that their whole energies may be devoted to the production of wood. When allowed to flower, their progress is considerably impeded, and a much longer time is required in which to produce a good-sized plant. The young plants, when established in small pots, should be wintered in a temperature of about 60°. Towards the end of January, if strong and well rooted, they can be placed in 5-inch pots, and introduced into a little higher temperature than the one recommended for wintering the plants. If in good condition at potting-time, growth should be rapid, and by the end of July or beginning of August they should be placed in pots 2 inches larger. While growing, air should be freely admitted when favourable, so as to produce a strong sturdy growth.

The house or frame in which they are grown should be closed early in the afternoon, so as to run up the temperature considerably with sun-heat. The winter treatment is simple, merely keeping the plants in the temperature named, and in a light situation where they can enjoy plenty of room, which is as essential during winter as in summer when growing, if the symmetry -of the plants is to be maintained. Potting should be attended to the following year, as the plants require it, giving a 2-inch shift each time, until placed in 12-inch pots, which is large enough to grow a good specimen at least 4 feet through. Potting will scarcely require to be done once a season after the first year; but this the cultivator will be best able to determine according to the progress of the plants and the condition of the roots. It is preferable to repot them twice a-year if they require it, rather than allow them to become checked by being pot-bound, and remaining in that condition during the winter. At the same time, it is not advisable to leave the second potting until late in the season, or the plants will not pass the winter so well as if thoroughly established in their pots.

In potting, the pots should be well and liberally drained, the drainage being covered with a layer of moss before placing in any of the soil, which should be pressed moderately firm into the pots. The old ball should not be disturbed more than is really necessary in removing the crocks or any loose soil on the surface of the ball. Tabernaemontanas do well in a mixture of peat and loam, but all peat is preferable, as it keeps in good condition for a greater length of time. The peat should be good, and not of a wet, sour nature, or the plant will not thrive in it long. A few small bones and broken charcoal can be mixed with the peat, with plenty of coarse sand, to keep the whole open and porous.

While growing, liberal applications of water should be given both at the roots and upon the foliage. The syringe should be used twice daily, and well applied to the under side of the leaves, which will keep them free of red-spider and thrip. When plants have received their final shift, and well filled the pots with roots, weak stimulants may be freely given. Nothing is better than clear soot-water given alternately with water in which a little guano has been mixed. Careful watering is necessary in all stages, especially for a time after repotting; but in no stage of growth should they become saturated or dust-dry, or considerable injury will be the result. If the flower-buds are advancing, either condition will cause a large number to fall off. During winter, while at rest, they will not require nearly so much water, and may with advantage be allowed to be much drier at the root, but not so as to injure either roots or foliage. Rest is best produced by subjecting the plants to a little lower temperature, say 55°, a little more on mild nights, or 5° lower during severe weather.

No advantages are gained by striving to maintain the temperature of a house to any given degree during winter : many are too particular on this point; and to keep the house right, the pipes are scorching hot one night, and nearly cold another, thus doing more harm than good. The best guide is to maintain the internal temperature in accordance with the external one. This may appear to those who are particular to a degree rather an irregular system, but it is nevertheless a natural one, and plants generally enjoy it, and do well under such conditions.

Very little training is required to produce a good plant, as it naturally grows into a shapely bush, especially if due attention is paid in its early stages of development to pinching the shoots as they require it. At first a few of the strong shoots may be brought down to the rim of the pots. If the plant is grown with a stem a foot or so in length, the shoots will eventually come down as they extend in growth to the base of the pot. Good-shaped plants can be grown from the commencement without tie or stake, if room is allowed them to grow and develop naturally. When the plant attains a fair size, its growths are very regular all over, and no stopping is required, unless it is done so as to cause a much longer succession of blooms on the same plant. It enjoys a little shade while growing during the hottest part of the day; at the same time, it should have abundance of light. Shading can be dispensed with as growth is completed, so that the wood may be well ripened.

Small plants can be grown in 5 and 6 inch pots, and look well for decoration when bushy. They will flower as freely when small as when grown into larger plants. Wm. Bardney.