We now beg to call the attention of the reader to the cultivation of the Plum, which may be classed as the third in point of importance among the larger-growing hardy fruits. No well-regulated, in fact no garden of any pretensions whatever, ought to be without a well-selected assortment of Plums. If these are properly chosen, and receive ample treatment, there will be no difficulty in having a regular supply every day, both for the table and kitchen use, from the beginning of August till the end of November, or even in later seasons till the beginning of December.

The Plum is generally propagated by budding or grafting, although several varieties - such as the Damson, Wentworth, and several others of the more common varieties - may be increased either by layers or suckers. When thus propagated, they form large vigorous trees, which are often barren for many years. Root-pruning does not even have so much effect upon them as in the case of grafted or budded trees. The Damson is said to reproduce itself pretty truly from seed; of this, however, we have no experience; and looking at the matter from a theoretical point of view, we certainly would not recommend it, as we would expect a rank, coarse-growing tree, which would be loath to bear and vigorous to grow. The stocks in most general use for grafting or budding upon are the Mussel, which produces the largest, the best, and longest-lived trees, and is therefore the best adapted for working upon for large standards. The white Pear Plum and the St Julian are also pretty freely used, and answer the same purpose very well. The Magnum Bonum has also been used at times, as well as several others of the stronger-growing varieties, but they do not answer so well as those we have already enumerated.

Where a dwarf habit and early fertility are much in demand, the Prunus spinosus, or Sloe, is sometimes used, but these often prove very shortlived and tender-constitutioned plants. The next best are the Mirabelle Plum or the Damas Noir, which both tend to dwarf the tree, and at the same to induce earlier fertility.

The first consideration with those who wish to embark upon the propagation of the Plum will be the production of stocks. As already hinted, these are the best when produced from seed of whatever variety may be chosen upon for this purpose. Where layers or suckers are employed for this purpose they often prove very troublesome in again producing a yearly crop of the same, to the great injury of the tree as well as the crop. The best time to sow the stones is in November.

The French leave this over till spring. Seeing how much better, however, is their climate for germination and after-progress, they may and do produce as good, if not better, stocks than we do by this method. By our sowing in November the seeds become soft and ready to burst ere the spring, so that the young seedling has got a greater length of time to grow and perfect its wood than if only freshly planted in spring. A nice bed, according to the quantity of seed about to be sown, ought to be prepared early in November. It should be made nice and rich by the introduction of leaf-mould and old mushroom dung; and if the soil is of a stiff clayey nature, sand or some other cutting material should also be introduced. The drills ought to be about 1 foot apart, and from 2 to 3 inches deep, according to the sizes of the seed. Into these drills the seeds may be deposited at distances of about 3 inches apart. By the month of September following, the greater part of the young plants will be ready for transplanting out into nursery-lines. When this operation is being performed the roots may be shortened considerably, and the top of the young shoot cut back to the first firm, plump, and ripe bud. They may be planted out into lines 2 feet apart and 1 foot between each plant in the line.

Here they may remain with no other attention until the following season, except having the soil regularly kept clean and free from weeds. If, however, there should be any nice strong shoots which it may be desirous to keep for working at standard height, these ought now to be selected and trained up by a stake in the manner already described when treating of the Pear. The following autumn they ought all again to be transplanted, having their roots thoroughly cut back, as already directed, and replanted in the same manner and at the same distances as recommended for the Pear at the same stage - viz., 2 feet.

Where new varieties of the Plum are wanted, we would in this, as in all other cases, recommend that all the flowers intended to produce seeds for young trees ought to be regularly impregnated, making the selection of parents the primary object, choosing a female of a strong healthy and hardy constitution free from all sorts of diseases; to cross with this, the male parent should possess at least flavour, but if flavour, size, health, and constitution can all be obtained in one, so much the better. We would further recommend every precaution to be used to avert any probability of impregnation from any unknown source. For full particulars regarding this, we refer the reader to our article upon the Pear, where he will find this more fully explained. The stones must be saved, and sown at the same time as if they were intended for stocks, and receive the same attention with regard to root-pruning, etc. At the end of the first season's growth, if it should prove a strong-growing variety, the young shoot of the seedling will be strong enough to graft or bud from. If this should be the case, some old tree in good health, but not vigorous, ought to be selected to put it upon.

By placing a graft upon such a tree, in the course of two or three years the variety might be thoroughly proved and tested as regards its qualities of size, flavour, colour, and appearance.

Budding appears to be more generally adopted by nurserymen for propagating the Plum than grafting; but whether it is considered by them as a better method or not, we are not aware. It may be that they adopt this plan to enable them to get another opportunity for grafting in the succeeding spring, should the bud fail to take upon the stock. Good trees can be got by adopting either method; and if we were asked the question, what method we would prefer, if we were to be confined to one of the two? we certainly would say grafting, as we consider it equally sure; and, at the same time, we may be able to get a young tree possessing two or three branches the first year by grafting if stock and scion are both strong, whereas by budding one shoot is invariably the result. Strong-growing varieties should be grafted near the ground, say from 9 inches to 1 foot high; and if wanted for a standard, have the leader trained to a stake and led up to where it may be desirable to form a head. Where the variety to be worked is weak and slow of growth, if it is wanted to form a standard the stock should be grown for the purpose, and be grafted at standard height.