In structural completeness the Tulip may be considered a masterpiece of finished simplicity - a plant of imposing bearing, were it only green instead of being the most gaudy of Nature's painted cups, stamped with colours of intense and polished brilliancy. Justly was it entitled to the honour of being considered the gayest of gay flowers in the early times of horticulture, when comparatively few of the grand tropical beauties had been introduced which now adorn our plant-stoves and conservatories. What wonder that this dazzling queen should captivate the enthusiast, and that her attractive power should pervade and control the desires of horticulturists to a great extent; but that the rage to possess certain varieties should run so high in some minds is, to say the least, marvellous, if not an infatuation. 4G00 florins, a new carriage, and a pair of horses complete in harness, is certainly an extravagant exchange for a single bulb. Nor do we think that person much less affected with what has been termed the "Tulipomania " who gave ten acres of land for a single root.

Besides those quoted, the numbers might be multiplied to a long figure, showing the rage that prevailed for the possession of some varieties at one time.

The Tulip, a native of the Levant, was first introduced into Europe in 1559, and thence to England from Vienna some eighteen years after, where its culture was most enthusiastically pursued for a long series of years succeeding - the varieties meantime having swelled to an unknown number. The late Tulip is ranked into three great divisions or classes, which are determined under the following names - viz., bybloemens, bizarres, and reds or roses. Byblcemens comprise white grounds, marked with several shades of black, maroon, purple, or violet; roses exhibit on white grounds the various shades of red; while bizarres have yellow grounds marked with other colours. These three classes are again divided into what are termed "feathered" and "flamed" flowers. Feathered, strictly speaking, are those flowers which exhibit their secondary colours around the margin of the petals; whilst those designated flamed are considered so either with or without the feathered margin. What constitutes them flamed is the fact that the markings take their rise lower down in the petal, and generally branch or break into ramifications as they proceed upwards.

Propagation

The Tulip is propagated by means of seed or by its offsets. Of the former we do not intend to speak. From " four to seven years " is a long time to wait to see them flower, and from " four to twenty years" rather long to wait to have it determined what are to be their ultimate markings.

Offsets should be planted as soon as separated from the mother bulb, choosing a situation dry and warm. Either plant them in beds or nursery-lines: First - after deeply digging the ground - drawing out a deep furrow, into which put a body of old cow-manure and fresh loam; then overspread a layer of sandy soil, on which plant the bulbs. Cover up with ordinary garden soil, allowing 2|- inches of soil above the bulbs. A border is perhaps the best place to plant into: if sloping suddenly from the wall to the walk all the better. As the winter approaches, the safety of the bulbs will be in a greater measure secured by covering with mats or dry litter, until they have established their roots in the soil.

Formation Of Beds, And Planting Flowering Bulbs

In the first place the beds ought to be lined off, and the soil, if not considered suitable, taken out 10 inches deep. Then manure the new-made surface, and dig down the manure. Then lay on a stratum of equal portions cow-manure, that has been in preparation by being stored up for a couple of years, and virgin loam, not too heavy. Lay on a body of this material 12 inches deep, and over this spread a covering of 3 inches of garden soil. In forming the bed it ought, when completed, to have the centre raised a few inches higher than the edges; and the whole - from the material added - will raise the bed considerably above the ground-level, which is required to assist in warding off a portion of the heavy rainfalls which are naturally to be expected during winter. Plant out the bulbs early in November, choosing a dry day for the operation. Commence operations by dressing the surface with a rake, preserving the rounded form of the bed. Line the bed into divisions 7 inches apart, and plant the bulbs along the lines at the same distance. Use for making the holes a dibbler rather blunt and rounded than one too sharp. Make the holes wide enough to afford the bulbs easy accommodation, and making insertions at the least 3 inches deep.

Next drop in the bulbs, bases downwards, and cover them with a little sharp sand before finally filling in the holes with a general covering of 1 1/2 inches leaf-mould and sand. Conclude the business meantime by raking off neatly, and extending hoops across the beds to support a covering of mats, when it is necessary to apply them as a protection in severe weather.

After-Culture

It is as essential that the beds have the benefit of every ray of sunlight in the absence of frost as it is important to protect them in severe frost, wind, or rains. In short, avoid covering unless compelled through the inclemency of the weather. These directions comprise all that is required during winter and early spring, excepting stirring the soil when it inclines to being crusty, and keeping free of weeds.

When the buds begin to display colour, it is time to consider about an awning of thin canvas being placed over the beds, so that the blossoms may be effectually protected from sun and wind - at the same time, as a matter of course, making a provision so as to preserve free ventilation, that air circulate constantly among the plants. This canvas ought to be fixed on rollers, so that it may be effectually lifted off the plants in dull days. Finally, when the glory of the bloom is past, remove the awning, and fully expose the plants to ripen, always being careful to dress away all the seed-pods before seed is formed in them. This will materially assist the swelling of the bulbs. Take up the bulbs as soon as the leaves are yellow, and spread them out to dry in an airy shed, where the sun cannot reach them. Sunshine is most destructive in its effects on newly-lifted bulbs. When thoroughly dry, detach the offsets and any loose skin, and store away in paper bags, with the name of the variety written in ink on the bag. If the bags used are stout brown paper, they ought to have their sides perforated to admit air.

Occasionally overhaul the bulbs, and remove decayed ones, to prevent them communicating disease to others that are sound.

The following assortments are dissimilar, and superior late show kinds: -

Bizarres

Heroine, Uranie, Hector, Fleur de Parade, Couronne Imperiale, Lucifer, Pallas, Lievin Bauwens, Due de Malakoff, Due de Russie, Trafalgar, Shakespeare, Cavaignac, La Nubile, Tromperie, and Pluton.

White Grounds Striped With Violet

Burrhus, Demonis, Othello, LTnapproachable, Jacqueline, Madame van Houtte, Oswald de Lille, Blondin, Belle Virginie, Mina Hortensia, La Ville de Louvain, Rembrandt, Ma Confidente, Ma plus Belle, Globertine.

White Grounds Striped With Rose

Goliath, Noemi, Lord Clyde, Reine d'Egypte, La Circassienne, Marie-Louise, Vesta, Magnolia, La Beaute, Andromeda, Fortune, Mmrod, Surprise de l'Amateur, Leonard, Feu Brillant, Sophie, La Sultane, and Vesuvius.