This section is from the book "The Gardener V3", by William Thomson. Also available from Amazon: The New Organic Grower: A Master's Manual of Tools and Techniques for the Home and Market Gardener.
If all late Grapes have not already been cut and used or bottled, the sooner they are bottled the better now, so as to get the Vines pruned and kept as cool as possible for a time. All wounds made in pruning should be immediately seared with a hot iron, and dressed thrice over with styptic, to prevent any chance of bleeding. All cleaning necessary should also be attended to, and all the dusty-dry part of the surface of the inside border removed, and replaced with a rich top-dressing, and the border thoroughly well watered. Early Grapes are later this spring than usual, owing to the severe winter. Owing to the amount of fire-heat that has been required, the foliage should be carefully examined for red-spider, and if any be found, let it be sponged off at once. Every advantage should now be taken of bright sunny weather to shut up as early in the afternoon as will run up the temperature to 80° for a short time, allowing it to drop to 65° by 10 p.m., unless when very mild, when it may be a few degrees higher. But it is better to do the forcing as much as possible by day, and keep moderate night temperatures. In changeable days the fires should not be allowed to become very low, so that sudden changes can be more efficiently met.
If this early crop be in pots, they will now require much more water than for the last two months. Give each pot a dessert spoonful of Standen's manure, and if not already done, top-dress the surface of the ball with some rich manure. Permanent Vines now in bloom should have a slightly drier atmosphere for a few days, when the pollen is being developed. Give each bunch a gentle tap on its main stem; and where any shy-setting sorts are in bloom, they will be benefited by the application of pollen from freer sorts, such as Black Hamburgs. All superfluous bunches should be removed before the blooming period, and the berries thinned when of the size of sparrow-shot; unless, of course, in the case of shy setters, which should not be finally thinned until the stoneless berries can be detected. The night temperature for these should be 65° in mild, and 60° in cold weather. "When the nights are cold and the pipes have to be slightly hotter, a gentle sprinkling of the floor of the house early in the morning may be necessary to prevent aridity; but, as a rule, we do not advise much sprinkling, except at shutting - up time on fine afternoons.
Disbud, stop, and tie down the young growths in succession-houses. In the case of young vigorous Vines, the tying down must be gone about with care; for if too severely brought down at onetime, the growths are apt to give way at their union with the old wood, so that they require to be brought down by degrees. Muscats and Gros Colmans intended to ripen in September should now be started; and in doing this see that the inside border, where such exists, is well watered with tepid water if possible. The end of this month is a good time to plant young Vines raised from eyes last season. Shake the soil from their roots, wash them with clean water, disentangle the rootlets, and dash a handful or two of dry sand about them. In planting them, and where there is an inside border (as there ought to be in all vineries), spread most of the roots towards the back of the vinery, for the roots have a tendency to proceed outwards unless freely dealt with inside. After watering them well, keep the heat at 55° at night until they have grown two inches, when it may be raised a few degrees; but do not force an early growth out of them just now.
 
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