Pot - Vines, as well as young Vines in borders, that have been subject to early forcing for the first time, very often break irregularly; and it is difficult to prevent their doing so, and at the same time force the growth so as to have ripe Grapes at a given date. The best way to counteract this tendency, and get obstinate buds to come away, is to pinch the growths that have started before the others just at the bunch, and prevent its running away so entirely with the sap from the others. When the others move, these closely-stopped shoots will soon push, and form a leaf or two beyond the bunch. Be very careful that pot-Vines are never allowed to suffer from over-dry-ness at the root. They should be carefully examined every day, and such as require water should get enough to wet the whole soil thoroughly. When the Vines come into bloom, keep the temperature about 60° at night, unless the weather be cold, when a few degrees less will do. Leave air on all night, and shut up early in the afternoon closely for an hour or two with a temperature of from 75° to 80°. This obviates the necessity for hard firing early in the night. Always put a little air on at dusk, to remain on all night.

Remove all superfluous bunches from the Vines as soon as it can be seen which are the most compact and best to leave for the crop. Where proper Grape-rooms exist, ail late Grapes will now be bottled; and if not already done, prune all Vines, and remove only the loose bark from the Vines. Unless there have been insects, such as bug, thrip, or spider, on the Vines last summer, there is no need for any dressing beyond scrubbing the stems with soap and water; but if there has been thrip or spider, dress with Gishurst's Compound. For bug more radical measures are necessary, as frequently described in this magazine. This is a month when many Vines are started. Begin with low temperatures at night, keep a thoroughly moist atmosphere, and syringe the Vines several times daily, until they burst into growth. As soon as the best shoots to leave can be discerned, rub off all the others from every spur, and avoid crowding the growths. A fruit-bearing shoot on each side of the Vine for every 20 inches is close enough. Crowding of growths, and having the foliage close to the glass, are two of the greatest evils in Grape-growing. If vineries were made high enough to allow of their being wired at 2 feet from the glass, it would be much better than 15 and 16 inches, which is the rule.

A freer circulation of air would be allowed over and about the foliage, to say nothing of other desirable conditions. If a bed of warm leaves and stable litter was put on the outside borders of early vineries when started, see that the heat is not allowed to decline suddenly. Put in the necessary number of Vine-eyes, and place them in bottom-heat in a light pit or house. In growing young Vines for forcing early next season, there is, of course, no better sort than Black Hamburg; but it is astonishing that such a Grape as Buckland's Sweetwater should be chosen for the purpose, or even Foster's Seedling (which is certainly better), when such excellent forcing Grapes exist as "White and Grizzly Frontignacs, with their exquisite flavour. Where new Vine-borders have yet to be made for planting this spring, let them be completed at once, so that they get a little time to settle before planting. When the Vines to be planted are ultimately intended for early forcing, plant them by the end of this month, and start them slowly.