The winter and early part of spring having been so very cold, necessitating so much fire-heat, it is to be feared that the foliage of early Vines may not be so robust as is desirable, and no doubt red spider will be more troublesome. No amount of attention should be considered too much to keep the destructive pest under. At this early season, the best way we have ever adopted is to keep a sharp look-out for its first appearance, and to sponge it off with a soft sponge and a little soapy water. A man can go over a great deal of foliage in this way in a short time. As soon as colouring commences in the case of pot - Vines, do not give any more strong liquid manure. Increase the air, and keep the soil sufficiently moist to well sustain the Vines. The reduction of water at the root to an extent that tells on the system of the plants is a mistaken practice, sometimes adopted with the idea of having better-flavoured Grapes. Where the crops i have begun to colour on permanent ! Vines, having their roots chiefly in inside borders, examine the soil, and if in need of water, give them a soaking that will carry them on till the Grapes are cut, or nearly so.

Later Vines, in whatever stages of progress, should not be subject to high night-temperatures : it is the greatest evil that can be perpetrated on Vines otherwise in good condition. Fine leathery dark-green foliage, free from the attacks of insects, can never be produced with high night-temperature and a stagnant atmosphere. We would much rather have Black Ham-burgs at 55° than 65° all through this month. A fine crisp growth and strong foliage, with dew-drops round their edge in the morning - the whole plants having a fresh healthy look - is the result of moderate night-temperature and judicious ventilation. The forcing should be done by day under the influence of light and sun-heat; and when the vineries are shut up in the afternoon with a high temperature, we like to shut the ventilators closely, opening them according to the weather at six o'clock. All growing Vines will now require constant attention. Whenever the best bunches can be discerned in the broad points of the buds, rub off all superfluous ones, leaving one to a spur. Stop the points of the shoots two joints beyond the best bunches. By the best bunches we mean the most compact and strongest-limbed ones. All the most loose and weak-limbed bunches should be removed.

As soon as the shoots can be brought i down to the wires, tie them in their places. This operation has to be done by degrees, especially in the case of strong black Hamburg Vines. Thin the berries of free-setting sorts early, for when the berries get larger the operation takes more time, and it gives the Vines needless work to do in swelling useless berries. Regarding the stopping of lateral growths, our practice is when the main shoots are very short jointed, and the leaves consequently thickly set, to remove entirely the laterals; but when the joints are longer, they are stopped at the first leaf. Black Hamburg especially colour best in shade. Muscats, Gros Colmar, and some others, colour best with more light.