In early houses where the Grapes are ripe, the atmosphere should be dry and cool. It is, however, possible, for the wellbeing of the Vines, to cany the drying process too far, especially when most of the roots are inside. A starving process may be carried on by extreme aridity. The border should be examined, and, if becoming too dry, let it be watered in the early part of the day after the full air is on, so that moisture may not condense on the bunches. After watering, mulch with some loose dry dung, such as an old mushroom-bed. This prevents evaporation, and keeps the necessary moisture about the roots with less frequent waterings. If red-spider sets in after the crop is ripe, it must not be allowed to have its own way. Where pure soft water can be had, it is better to syringe a few times to check it than to allow the foliage to be prematurely destroyed. If there is no unsightly deposit in the water, the mere syringing will not destroy the bloom, if performed in fine days when the bunches dry quickly. Hand-sponging each leaf where spider appears, if the time can be afforded, is the best remedy.

In later vineries, where Grapes are swelling off, keep up the temperature with as little fire-heat as possible - that is, rather shut up early in the afternoon to make the most of sun-heat, instead of leaving the vinery open later in the day, and then have recourse to violent firing to maintain the maximum night temperature. Under such circumstances as we are recommending, the night temperature can be kept to 70° till far on in the evening without heating the pipes much in the early part of it; and with such treatment, Muscats, in bright weather, may range as high as 75° at 9 p.m., falling to 70° in the morning. With increased light, and the more liberal ventilation necessary, moisture, from sprinkling the border and paths, must also increase in all cases, except where the Grapes are colouring and ripe. As soon as succession-houses are set, and have their berries about the size of Radish-seed, lose no time in getting them all thinned. Avoid heavy cropping as perhaps the greatest evil that can be perpetrated on the Vine: it defeats its end in all ways.

The Grapes cannot be so fine, and it is the surest way of breaking down the constitution of the Vines. See last month's "Calendar" in reference to stopping, disbudding, and tying down late Vines. Vines planted in March and April will require careful attention, as their roots have not yet much hold of the border. See that they do not get too dry at the root, especially if planted near the hot-water pipes. Tie their young growths carefully to the Vines, and allow them to make as much growth and foliage as will cover the roof. If there are temporary Vines planted among those that are to be permanent, the former require to be differently managed. One or two leaves to each lateral growth is enough to leave on them. As soon as they reach the point to which it is intended to fruit them next year, stop the main shoot, and then allow it to start and grow again for a time; for if it and the laterals be kept closely stopped, the best of the main buds which should fruit next year will start, and the object in view will to a great extent be defeated.

Vine Forcing #1

Where established Vines are now swelling off full crops, pay careful attention to the state of the borders, particularly inside. An excellent plan is to mulch them lightly with old Mushroom-bed dung, and give a heavy watering of soft tepid water about the time they are stoning, and again just as they show the first signs of colouring. The outside border, if the season be dry and hot, should be treated in the same way if possible. We believe we should have far less annoyance from red-spider and shanking and shrivelling, were more water applied to Vine-borders in the heat of dry summers, always presuming that the drainage and border are, as they ought to be, sufficiently open. In calm hot weather it will now be necessary to give front ventilation to all Vines, but not to such an extent as to create violent draughts on windy days. The front ventilation should be shut up entirely as soon as the sun begins to decline in power. Put air on at the top of the houses early in the morning, to prevent moisture from condensing overmuch about the foliage.

Indeed a little should be left on all night; and, as recommended in the case of Pines, the ventilation should be increased by degrees to the maximum by 12 o'clock, and again gradually reduced, but always shutting with a high temperature from sun-heat to prevent much firing at night. Let Vines from which the fruit is all cut be kept cool, and their foliage well syringed occasionally, to keep them free from red-spider, and their foliage in health as long as possible. Thin all Grapes immediately they are fit for the scissors, as fruit advance so quickly at this season that they soon get larger and thicker than they ought to be when thinned. See last month's directions regarding Grapes that are colouring, newly planted Vines, etc. If not already done, pot Vines intended for fruiting early next year should be shifted into their fruiting-pots - 11 and 12 inch pots are large enough. Three parts loam and one part horse-droppings, and a little bone-meal, is an excellent compost for them.