The past season was a very unfavourable one for late Grapes. They were ripened with little sunshine and too much moisture in outside borders, and are on that account destitute of fleshiness and sugar, and have not kept very well. Look over every bunch three times weekly, and remove every trace of damped or mildewed berries. Keep the temperature steadily ranging from 40° to 45° at night, according to the weather. Keep the ventilators shut when it is wet or foggy, and on fine days increase the fire-heat and ventilate freely, so that the warm air may carry off the moisture. Where only a few Grapes are now left, it is a good plan to cut them, with a portion of the stem attached, and put them in bottles of water in which a few pieces of charcoal have been dropped, and put them in a cool dry fruit-room where there is a steady temperature of 40°. In this way Grapes keep well, and the vinery can be used for other purposes, and the Vines pruned. All Vines from which the Grapes have been cut should be pruned at once.

After pruning, if they have been infested with red-spider last season, remove every portion of loose bark, but avoid scraping them to the "quick," and wash them well with Fowler's Insecticide, using a hard brush, and afterwards dress them over with usual dressing of sulphur, soft-soap, and tobacco-water, reduced to the consistency of paint, with clay and cow-dung. We do not recommend this scraping and painting unless the Vinos have had insects on them last year. Wash every part of the wood-work and glass, and whitewash the walls. Remove all inert soil from the surface of the bor-der, and replace it with equal parts loam and horse-droppings, and a little Lone-meal. In some instances early-started grapes will be thinned, or ready to thin, and if required as early as possible to succeed late Grapes, may be forced briskly on as the days lengthen; 65° is sufficient at night. The forcing should be chiefly by day, under the in-jluence of light. Do not over-crop, especially if the Vines are worth caring for. If the earliest crop is in pots, see that they are very attentively watered, and top-dressed with horse-droppings, into which surface-roots will soon find their way and feed.

Avoid an over-moist atmosphere in all houses where Vines are in leaf, especially in dull weather, when air cannot be given in sufficient amount to prevent the foliage from being affected with warts. Disbud later houses, and stop and tie down the shoots. Thin off the bunches in the case of free-setting sorts to one bunch on each shoot for the present. Avoid the crowding in of too many growths, and just tie in as many as can get room to expand their foliage to the full light' and no more. Start succession-houses; and presuming that a ridge of leaves has been laid in the inside border, turn over a portion of them daily to let the heat and moisture escape into the air: after they have broken an inch or two this maybe discontinued. Begin them at 45° to 50° at night, regulating the heat according to the weather; gradually increase it to GO0 by the time the buds have all well started into growth. If they show a tendency to break well at the top and not at the bottom of the Vines, bend the tops down, where the temperature is low, and elevate the bottom part of them as much as possible. The atmosphere should be kept moist till they are broken, and in bright weather the syringe may be used morning and afternoon till the buds swell.

Put in a sufficient number of Vine eyes required to be grown into plants for another season's fruiting. These may be put singly in 3-inch pots, or altogether in a pan or box: we prefer the former. Let them stand in a temperature of 45° to 503 till early in February.