However much some may regard the cause of fire blight in the pear a mystery, there is no doubt about its being far less serious than it was a few years ago. The leaf blight and other blights are still about the same, but these are trifles as compared with the fire blight which would often destroy comparatively large trees in a few days. It is now clear that Mr. Barry's original advice to the sufferer was sound. This was that the best remedy for a fire-blighted pear tree was to take it out at once and plant another in its place. Those who followed this advice from the first have many of them plenty of pears now. In all the discussions on this question, some things have been found which are undoubted. For instance, the fact that a new tree placed in the spot where one has been killed, and yet thriving perfectly afterwards, shows that the evil was not in any way connected with the soil. And then the fact that in some districts where the disease did appear, there were often many trees wholly uninjured is against any idea of general climatic influences against the success of pear culture. It is no serious cause for discouragement, even should any one believe that there has been nothing learned about the origin of the trouble. He may yet have pears, if he will but set out trees.

Those who believe that fungus spores enter through the bark and cause the trouble, will continue to wash the bark of trees if they can get time or opportunity.

Whitewashing the stems of orchard trees has a very beneficial effect in clearing away old bark and destroying the eggs of innumerable insects. The white color is bad; throw in a little soot or some other matter to make it brown. In greenhouses sulphur has been found of benefit in keeping down mildew. Possibly if mixed with the whitewash in tree dressing, it might do good against fire blight, and such like fungoid troubles.

In fruit growing, remember that fruits are like grain and vegetable crops, in this, that they must have manure to keep up the fertility. Unlike vegetables and grain, however, their feeding roots are mostly at the surface. It is best, therefore, annually to top-dress fruit trees. If manure cannot be had, any fresh earth from ditches or roadsides, spread a half inch or so under the trees, will have a wonderful effect. Indeed, we do not know but that for the pear tree a thin layer of road sand is one of the best of manures. We have seen apples thrive amazingly with a coating of coal ashes.

The gooseberry and currant also do well in partial shade. In fact, if you would have the gooseberry and currant in great perfection, get a lot of old brushwood and cover the rows closely, so that the plants will have to push through, and you will be astonished at the growth and healthfulness of the bushes. The decaying wood also furnishes an excellent manure for them. The finest currants ever grown can be had by mulching with old chestnut burrs, or even saw dust.

It has been noted that the grape vine thrives amazingly when it gets into an asparagus bed. These are generally elevated, and are thus dry, while the rich soil necessary for asparagus, is also good for grapes.

In planting fruit trees aim to have them so that the hot dry sun will not have full effect on the ground about the roots. The great heat in this way injures the trees. Many who have trees in gardens plant raspberries under them. The partial shade seems to be good for the raspberries, and helps the trees. Blackberries would no doubt do well in the same situation; and strawberries it is well known, do not do badly, grown in this way.