The excessive drouth which has prevailed in many parts of the country, has not been without its lessons to the horticulturist. In Germantown where from three to five inches of rain is the record for June, the fall this season has been but.

99 of one inch, and up to the time of writing this, early in July, there has not been a drop to add to it. Though there have been local rains in many places, the showers have generally missed, and hundreds of spring planted things have passed away. Shall this be an argument for fall planting ? Yes, and no. Yes, if we are willing to believe that fall is at least as good as spring; no, if we ever expect to get complete immunity from all loss in planting trees. It must be remembered that trees die after transplanting, from lack of moisture. They dry out. Trees die in winter and in summer that have not been transplanted, just the same as if they had been, if the moisture does not get into the branches as fast as it dries out. A transplanted tree has a worse chance in this respect than one not transplanted. First, because it has lost some of its roots; secondly, because the earth does not set as tightly against the roots as before; for, no matter how well a tree may be transplanted some of the roots will not be in close contact with the earth, and then it may as well not have that much root, for the root must be in close contact with the earth before it can get any moisture from it.

It is for this reason that very often a tree with "splendid" roots, and "well planted " will die before one that has poor roots; the very thick mass preventing the earth from getting close in around each one. A fall planted tree has this great advantage, that the heavy fall rains have a tendency to carry the earth in and around the roots, while the low temperature following is unfavorable to any excessive evaporation from the branches. The only enemy to be feared is excessively cold and drying winds.

In spring planting we not only have the difficulty of packing the earth well in among the roots, but have the possibility of heat and drouth immediately following. Aside from these theoretical reasonings, the experience of the last few seasons has been very favorable to the success of fall planting. As early as it can be done in the fall the better. Another lesson relates to watering in a dry time; water will not supply the place of shoitened roots, or of soil ill packed in, but it is some good to the roots that can reach the earth. But the chief trouble is that people seldom commence to water till the tree is in a dying condition, and when it is too late to be of any service. The intelligent gardener waters before the plant needs it badly, and this is one of the gardener's arts that a stupid fellow can never learn, and which after all can only be well taught by experience. And in watering it is rather an injury than a benefit to pour the water on the surface. This compacts the earth, and it dries out sooner than if not watered. But if a basin be made about the tree, water poured in, and as soon as the water soaks away the soil filled in again lightly - not pressed in - such watering is a great benefit. Again, pruning is a great help to a tree suffering from drouth after transplanting.

If, with all the care in watering or otherwise, some branches do not push into growth freely, cut them back at once.

As soon in the fall as bulbs can be obtained they should be planted - though this will not gen. erally be the case till October, - but it is as well to bear in mind that the earlier they are planted, the finer they will flower. This is particularly the case with the many varieties of Lily, and of the now popular Narcissus; and it may also be remembered that though Dutch bulbs, and other hardy bulbs will grow well in any good garden soil, low alluvial or rather moist ground, gives the best results.

The latter end of August is one of the best seasons of the year to transplant evergreens. The young growth of the past season has got pretty well hardened, so as to permit of but very little evaporation, - and the earth being warm, new roots push with great rapidity, and the tree becomes established in the ground before cold autumn winds begin. The chief difficulty is that the soil is usually very dry, which prevents much speed with the operation; and the weather being usually very warm, the trees have to be set again in the ground almost as fast as they are taken up; so that it is not safe to bring them from a distance. It is as well therefore, to make all ready in anticipation of a rain, when no time may be lost in having the work pushed through. Should a spell of dry weather ensue, - which in September and October is very likely, - one good watering should be given, sufficient to soak well through the soil and well about the roots. A basin should be made to keep the water from running away from the spot, and to assist its soaking in.

After being well watered, the loose soil should be drawn in lightly over the watered soil, which will then aid in preventing the water from drying out soon again.

Herbaceous plants may be divided early in the fall, and with great profit set out, if a little care be taken to keep them from being drawn out by frost. Some few will thrive all summer in poor and hard soil; but the majority will only live well in a rich open soil made especially for them. Some die out from being left to mature seeds. Unless we want a few seeds, flowers should be cut as fast as they fade, just as we do with roses. Some hardy perennials are, however, much the best when renewed occasionally from seeds.