Many lovers of flowers would like to have a small conservatory or greenhouse but are deterred by the expense and trouble of heating. The following method of heating was related to me by a gentleman who saw it in practical operation in a greenhouse about 15 by 20 feet in size. He said the same plan was used to heat street cars in one city in the East (I believe it was Philadelphia), but it did not work so well, on account of the street cars going up and down grades.

The plan was this : An iron pipe was put under the benches and around three sides of the house, the part farthest from where the heat is placed to be the highest and a regular fall all the way around to the lowest end; at the lowest end the pipe is closed with a thin piece of sheet it on which is placed so as to be over a gas jet or a lamp. In the pipe is placed from a quart to a gallon of salt water holding as much salt in solution as possible. Both ends of the pipe must be closed. When the water is heated by the gas jet or lamp it heats the whole length of pipe. This method would be splendid for heating pits, hot beds, etc. I expect a four-inch pipe would be the best size.

I do not vouch for the above, but simply state it for what it is worth, and would be glad to hear from any one that has tried the plan. It is entirely new to me but may be well known to some.

New Albany, Indiana.

"Dear Editor - Could you inform me the most economical way of heating a small conservatory 12x16 about 8 feet high? The building is detached save a board fence on the north side, though sheltered by houses on the east, west and north. By so doing you will confer a favor on a subscriber. Very truly yours, "Eugene J. G. Dailledouze".

Flatbush, L.I..N. Y.

Similar communications often reach us. It is next to impossible to give directions that would be applicable to each particular case. One of the best ideas that ever came before the Editor was given by a correspondent in the Gardeners' Monthly many years ago. The idea can be adapted to peculiar circumstances better than any other one, and we think it will serve a good purpose at this time to reprint the whole chapter. It is by Loring W. Puffer :

'* I do not propose in this paper to advance any particular theory as to the circulation of hot water, but to confine myself to a few facts in my own experience. Many persons are deterred from building greenhouses because the heating apparatus must be either cumbrous or expensive, for it has almost passed into a proverb, that houses less than 50 feet in length, cannot be economically heated by hot water. Having solved that problem to my satisfaction during the past ten years, I herewith give you the result: The office or parlor stove for anthracite coal of to-day, is an improvement over the old cylinder cast-iron stove, inasmuch as its peculiar construction allows a continuous fire to be kept for months, and when properly adjusted there is a perfect combustion of the coal; consequently no waste, no fires to rebuild, while ten minutes' time daily will keep them in satisfactory running condition. This improvement, so far as I know, was introduced by one McGreg-gor, some twenty years ago, and while very few of these stoves are now in use, the principle involved can be found in nearly all the modern stoves known by the name of McGee, Orient, Base burner, Gas burner, and other fanciful names.

It consists essentially in a cast-iron cylinder, lined with fire-brick, and surrounded at a distance of 2 or 3 inches, with a sheet-iron shell. The heat rising from the cast-iron cylinder to the top is deflected back and down between this and the sheet-iron shell and then finds access to the pipe, what is not radiated by the stove, through the base of the stove, and under and back of the fire to the chimney. The amount of heat lost in the chimney is not probably five per cent. A fire can be kept for forty-eight hours without touching. That I have tested. Of course not much heat could be generated, as combustion goes on very slowly. But a good degree of heat can be maintained for twelve hours. Now having used these stoves for sixteen years, and withal, being a Yankee, I could never build a fire in my flue without contrasting the difference. The stove so simple, effectual, and neat in its working. The flue at its best, being unsightly, dirty and ineffectual to a certain extent, and using more time than I could well afford to spare. About ten or eleven years ago, having a small propagating house to heat, I found a stove that would answer my purpose, and cutting some holes through the shell, inserted a bend of 2-inch gas-pipe, communicating with a wooden tank.

This worked some time quite effectually, but the pipe clogged the fire, and after some thinking, 1 had patterns made, and a boiler cast, which should take the place of the fire-brick, the size being adapted to the amount of heat required for tank heating. This worked effectually and to my satisfaction until I sold the house. This was, I think, in the spring of 1863. Last fall I concluded that I would apply the principle in heating my greenhouse, which is 11feet wide and 32 long. I secured the base and top of a McGee stove, and ordered a cylinder boiler of No. 16 gauge, sheet copper, made by a tinman. The boiler is 2 feet high, 16 inches outside, and 14 inches inside diameter. The copper is first riveted, and then soldered. The space between the two shells filled with water is 1 inch. The boiler is lined with firebrick 1 foot high, leaving 1 foot exposed to the direct action of the fire. Fifty pounds of coal will fill the space to the top of the fire brick. If filled to the top of the boiler, something over 100 pounds would be required. External and at about an inch distant is a sheet-iron shell, with smoke-pipe at its base.

The fire is entirely surrounded by water, and the heat, after rising to the top, descends to the base of the boiler, and thence to the smoke-pipe - what has not been radiated. When the boiler is working well, the smoke-pipe will be about blood warm. Some heat is radiated by the sheet iron shell, but by using a covering of felt, that would be mostly retained. The temperature of the house during the night is from 400 to 50°, commonly about 450, and it never falls during the night. On March 5th, with the temperature outside at 10° below zero, and a driving wind, with an expenditure of 75 lbs. of coal in the twenty-four hours, the heat was steady at 45°, not varying one degree, and using but 95 feet of 4-inch pipe. The house contains 2700 cubic feet, fronts south, and is not protected by other buildings. The boiler cost forty-two dollars. The amount of coal used is from fifty to sixty-five pounds daily. The fire does not go out for weeks, and but for the fact that there is more or less slate with the coal, it could be kept up from fall until spring. An average of ten minutes per day will keep it working. There is one flow and two return pipes. The end of the flow pipe is 6 inches higher than the top of the boiler.

It has always worked to my perfect satisfaction, and although only about 100 feet of pipe is attached, have no doubt that it would work 300 feet, but of course, using more coal. I send a rough draught of it; should be pleased to show it to any one. One of Hitchings' boilers that would do the same work would cost about one hundred and fifty dollars. P. S. - I am not a manufacturer of boilers".

1. Damper to admit cold air and check draft. 2. Ash pit. 3. Revolving grate, 12 inches in diameter. 4. Door to ash pit, with slide damper. 5. Damper for direct draft. 6. Fire brick. 7. Boiler. 8. Smoke pipe. 9. Wrought-iron collar on end of copper pipe - ends turned over. 10. Four-inch iron pipe; top and base cast-iron-sheet-iron outside. 11. Cover. The water pipes are to be understood as radiating from the side instead of the front, as shown by this section.