First, look after the nutrition of the trees. Some people say that land which will raise good corn will grow good fruit trees, which is all right; but they should add that, like corn, they require regular and continuous manuring. There are some parts of the country where corn can be successively taken for half a lifetime without manure. On these soils we need not manure fruit trees, but in all others we must, to have good results. This is particularly essential where trees are grown in grass, as both the trees and the grass require food. Where trees are grown in grass, we prefer top-dressing in June or July; but if it has not been done then do it now. Where trees are kept under clean surface-culture, the manure is of course ploughed or harrowed in with the crop in the spring of the year. To know whether trees require manure or not, ask the leaves. If in July they are of a dark rich green, nothing need be done to them; but if they have a yellow cast, hunger is what is the matter. This, of course, is supposing they are not infested by borers, in which case they will be yellowish in the richest soil.

In asparagus culture it is usual to put a thick coating of manure over the beds in the fall, and even yet if it has not been done it will pay to do so, provided the frost is not in the ground. For one of the objects of covering is to keep the frost out. Early asparagus is very desirable, and it is much earlier when the ground has not to be thawed out before the plant can grow. It loves rich food, so that the covering serves a double purpose. In small gardens, where every foot of ground is desirable, early radishes and lettuce can be sown on the asparagus bed.

It will be well to note what has been said about linseed oil in a previous volume. There is no doubt but it will destroy scale and improve the health of the trees; but in a few cases it has been destructive, evidently from the use of mineral oil, and not pure linseed. The purity of the article should be ascertained. Trees that have suffered badly from scale often get hide-bound - a slitting up and down with the pruning knife will set them on their feet again.

This is generally supposed to be the pruning season. Orchard trees generally get too much pruning. In young trees only thin out so as not to have the main leaders crossing or interfering with one another. Or when a few shoots grow much stronger than the rest, cut these away. Insist on all the branches in young trees growing only on a perfect equality. On older trees which have been in bearing a number of years, it will often benefit to cut away a large portion of the bearing limbs. By a long series of bearings, branches will often get bark-bound and stunted, preventing the free passage of the sap to the leaves. In such cases the sap seems to revenge itself by forcing out vigorous young shoots a long way down from the top of the tree. It is down to these vigorous young shoots that we would cut the bearing branches away. One must use his own judgment as to the advisability of this. If the tree bears as fine and luscious fruit as ever, of course no such severe work need be done, but if not, then now is the time.

This keeping out of borers, especially in the apple, is one of the most desirable things in fruit culture. Many prefer to wait till they see signs of sawdust at the ground, and then kill them by running a wire into the holes by the help of a jack knife. But it is best to keep them out altogether. A waxy grease, with some tar added, painted thickly about the base of the trunk, and just under the ground, is the best remedy. The insect keeps clear of this mixture, and goes to the trees of your neighbor to lay its eggs in preference to yours.