This is proverbially a busy month in gardens; much, however, depends upon the state of the weather and the soil. The principal crops should be put in as early as possible. A few days' delay at this time is frequently the only difference between failure and success. Those, therefore, who have duly attended to the draining and aerating of the soil will now reap the advantages of their foresight, in the facility with which they can crop the ground, as there is no gain in cropping before the soil is in a fit condition. Clayey loams require especial care: if they are tramped upon or disturbed while wet, the ground will not recover its friability during the season, but will remain lumpy and crack open in fissures during dry weather, to the great injury of the plants growing in it.

Manure that is applied to early crops should be well decomposed, that its action may be concentrated and immediately effective. Premising that the ground has previously been deeply turned over, the manure should only be lightly dug in: for early peas, horn carrot, parsley, onions, etc, this is a good method; but for crops that have to withstand the droughts of summer, the manure should be put in the bottom of the trench, not less than a foot below the surface.

Among other things requiring earliest attention maybe mentioned salsify, onions, parsnips, spinach, turnips, beets, parsley, peas, and potatoes; the two former must be sown early to get anything like a proper crop; for, unless they get a good growth before warm weather, they are severely checked, and onions are by this means frequently not larger than chestnuts.

All garden crops should be grown on the drill system; it is otherwise impossible to do them full justice in culture. A rake should never be employed in the preparation of ground for seed. This as a rule. Exceptions may be made in particular cases; but very much injury results from the prevailing system of breaking and raking the ground until it is as fine as powder. Our heavy rains beat such soils into a mortar consistency, and the sun bakes it into a hard crust, through which young plants cannot penetrate. Equally injurious is that old system, which is yet frequently recommended, to trample in seeds. The great feature in cultivation is to keep the soil loose, more especially on the surfaoe, as it retards evaporation of contained moisture, and admits the unimpeded access of the various agents of vegetable growth to the roots of plants.

With regard to the depth that seeds should be covered, it is a safe rule to cover them with a depth of soil about equal to their own thickness. This cannot always be strictly done, but it should be aimed at as near as possible.

Much difficulty frequently occurs in raising young crops in strong soils, from their liability to bake on the surface, as alluded to above. A slight covering of hay or short grass prevents the formation of this crust, and enables the tender plants to get through the surface; but, unless carefully watched, and the covering removed at the exact moment, the crop will run a risk of destruction from its being shaded and drawn up tender. The best material for this purpose that I have ever used is wheat chaff. A slight sprinkling over the drills will prevent injury from rains, etc, and, from its nature, offers no resistance to the future growth of plants. Of course, it is allowed to remain. I know of no superior method to insure a speedy germination and growth of small seeds, such as celery, carrots, etc. Even should the weather prove otherwise unfavorable to their growth, a good crop of young plants may thus be rendered certain.

For early crops the old adage of "sow thick and thin quick" is very appropriate. One pint of peas will sow a row of 60 feet; for late crops the same quantity will sow 100 feet. Carrot, one ounce will sow a row of 150 feet long; parsnip, half an ounce 150 feet; Spinach, one ounce 120 feet; beans, one pint will plant 150 feet of a row; and half an ounce of cabbage, brocolf, cauliflowers, and their allies, will seed a bed of 40 square feet.

Those who have wet, late soils to work on, will find it a great advantage in their early crops of peas and beans to plant them on the surface, and throw a little soil over them with a spade. Thus elevated the plants are in a better position to withstand extremes either of wet or cold.

New plantations of asparagus, rhubarb, and horseradish may be made now. The soil should be trenched eighteen inches deep, and heavily manured. The former is most readily cultivated when planted in rows three feet apart, plants six inches apart. Two year old plants should be used, or sow seed and thin out as they advance.

Those who have the convenience of a greenhouse, grapery, or even a spare frame, may forward a few dozen pots of sweet corn, peas, or dwarf beans. By doing so, a dish or two of these vegetables may be had several days in advance of the regular crop. The corn should be put out in the ground when about a foot high, the peas and beans when grown three inches. Sow the peas thickly over the surface of the pots, and, when planting them out, separate them gently in the drill. They should be staked at once, which will protect them from frosty nights. The above is the most convenient method of forwarding peas. It is necessary that all crops thus forwarded should be thoroughly inured to the weather, by exposure several days before final transplanting.

Vegetable Garden #1

Order, regularity, and neatness, go hand in hand with good cultivation; and nowhere is their appearance of more moment than in this department, whether in respect to the enjoyment to be derived in contemplating the various developments of the crops, or the beneficial influence it confers on their growth. The walks and paths should be kept clean, and all blanks in their edgings repaired. It will not pay one to grow weeds.

Tomatoes, egg-plants, etc, should now be removed from the seed-beds, and carefully transplanted either into a frame, or some sheltered spot, where they can be readily protected from cold and dry winds. Choose a rich vegetable soil, and plant a couple of inches asunder. This encourages them to form numerous roots, and they will succeed better on final planting in the open ground. Prepare for planting Lima beans by inserting poles, digging the soil deep, and mixing a portion of well-rooted manure, or leaf mould, in the hills. There is nothing gained by planting this crop too early. The soil must be warm, and in condition to accelerate vegetation before planting, to insure a speedy and vigorous growth. I have always seen the earliest and best crops from those that have not been planted until these conditions could be secured.

Peas should be sown every two or three weeks, to keep up a regular supply. Let the ground be deeply worked for future sowings, otherwise they may not be profitable should dry weather prevail.

Asparagus should now be uncovered, and, if growing in rows, the soil should be forked up between them. In cutting it for use, it is well to bear in mind, that it is superfluous to cut below the surface, the white portion not being eatable. Seed may yet be sown for young plantations. See to the clearing of this crop, and give an early check to the growth of weeds.

Chamomile, sage, wormwood, tansy, and lavender, may have their roots divided, or increased by slips where a stock is required.

Vegetable Garden #1

As soon as crops appear above ground, the soil should he carefully stirred around them. This is one of the advantages derived from drill culture, and a very important one it is during dry seasons. The deeper the ground is loosened, the better will it support vegetation; the loose ground on the surface acts as a mulching, and prevents the rapid evaporation of the moisture from below. The air is also allowed unimpeded access to the roots, facilitating those electro-chemical changes upon which the growth of plants so much depends. The most useful implement for this operation is the Dutch, or scuffle hoe; in using it, there is no occasion to tread on the loose ground. Heavy summer showers more or less consolidate the surface of all soils; surface stirring should therefore follow immediately after rains, and never allow weeds to gain sufficient headway to suggest the use of the hoe, but let the cleanliness and freedom from weeds be a consequence of repeated surface cultivation.

In planting Lima beans, guard against deep covering; if the ground is prepared as suggested last month, they may be simply pressed under the surface with the hand; there is sometimes no small difficulty in getting a good start, with this crop, in close soils. The principal sowings of parsnip, long beet, and orange carrot, if not already down, should receive early attention.

Towards the end of the month, sow a few seeds of Walcheren cauliflower, to come in for fall and early winter use.

Flat Dutch cabbage, and curled Savoy seed, should also be sown at once for winter crops.

Celery should be sown for main crops; choose enriched, friable soil, and mulch lightly with manure, and water occasionally in dry weather.

Young asparagus plantations should be mulched between the rows, and an occasional watering with salted water will be beneficial; two ounces of salt to a gallon of water will form a sufficiently strong solution.

Sweet corn, summer squash, and vegetable marrows, may be planted at intervals of two or three weeks, if a constant supply of tender vegetables is anticipated.

Peas, tomatoes, etc, may be hastened to maturity by pinching out the points of the plants, checking growth will induce a tendency to early fruiting.

In transplanting, always puddle the roots in a mortar of soil and water, unless the weather is dull and showery.

Sweet potatoes may be raised to tolerable perfection, even in strong, loamy soil, by throwing the ground into small mounds twelve or fourteen inches high, and inserting the plants on the extreme top of the mound. Plants may be obtained in quantity by placing a few roots in a hotbed, and cut out the young shoots when three or four inches grown; three such plants should be planted in a triangle on each hill.