We are always glad to see our Table matter items republished in our exchanges, because it satisfies us of their value; but we feel that we expend time and money in the preparation, printing, etc., and that due credit should be given for such matter as our friends choose to reprint. We hope our co-workers in editorial labors will remember this hint, and simply attach the word Horticulturist to such items as they choose to extract from our pages.

The best manure for all sorts of berries is undoubtedly vegetable mold, decayed leaves or straw, etc. The strawberry and raspberry particularly are great exhausters, of vegetable matter in the soil, and a free application of leaf mold we have known result in giving good crops from land on which without such application the product was very unsatisfactory.

Dwaf Box Edgings should be planted this month; press the earth firmly around the roots or cuttings with the foot, but when finished leave the surface level and lightly raked.

Grapevines' in the green-house should at this season be abundantly supplied with moisture, either by syringing or freely wetting the walks, or both. Superfluous shoots springing from the base of the spurs should be rubbed off, and laterals stopped when they have made three leaves beyond the fruit-buds. Tie up carefully and keep all clean and neat about the house.

When making new strawberry plantations, set the plants at distances of about eighteen inches in the row, and the rows two to two and a half feet apart, and expect to keep them afterward in hills, as by so doing a larger berry and more quantity is obtained than when grown in matted beds. Do not wait for the weeds to grow so large as to smother the strawberry vine before commencing with the hoe, but remember that it is easier and less labor to hoe oyer an acre three times when the weeds are only one inch high, than to hoe and weed it once after they get to be six inches, a foot, or more.

Ogdensburg, Feb. 12, 1867.

Messrs Editors : I have a green-house (lean-to) built against the south end of my dwelling, 40 feet long by 20 feet wide, fronting south, heated by a brick furnace and flue; furnace is in north side near N. E. corner; the flue runs round east, south, and west to chimney in dwelling north. Chimney is 40 feet high, inside capacity 8 by 20 inches, inside capacity of flue 8 by 10 inches with a rise of 6 inches in 12 feet. It works well at all times, except with a blustering south wind, when the smoke beats back out at the furnace door and damper, and the fire does not burn well. I use wood for fuel. Can you, or any of the readers of the Horticulturist, tell me a remedy, and oblige, respectfully yours, Thos. Lawrence!

[We should imagine that the defect was not in the flue, but in the chimney; should advise that you put a smoke-jack on your chimney-top.]

Blackberry planting should be among the first of this month's labors, if not already completed. A deep, moderately light and rich soil suits the blackberry best, but it is a plant that can be profit-ably grown in any good garden soil. Plants that were grown last year from pieces of roots, and have now a good crown and roots, are the best; but strong sucker canes will give a little fruit this season. Cut the first-named back to two buds, and the latter to two feet. In planting, cover the crown only about two inches deep with soil, and then add a light mulch of some material.

Melons, Lima beans, etc., may now be planted in pots, or on pieces of sod, and placed in a partially spent hot-bed, or a new bed made so as not to furnish too strong heat. A gentle bottom heat will bring them forward more natural and healthy than one rank and of high temperature. Give air freely when it can be done, and not chill the soil or plant.

Camellias now making growth will require free watering and syringing. An application of liquid manure once a week will assist them.

Trees that have blown partially over should be at once righted, and staked to hold them in position until they have again made growth and new roots.

Ik uncovering tulip and hyacinth beds, or in working among them at this time, be very careful while loosening the soil and giving a clean and neat appearance, not to injure the buds or foliage. They are very delicate at this time, and a slight injury will be plainly perceptible in a few hours thereafter.

When first stirring the soil, on seed beds, around the young growing plants, use a steel rake rather than a hoe. One trial will satisfy any one of its superiority.

In the January number of your paper Mr. Husmann makes a liberal use of my name relative to the comparative merits of the Norton and Ives seedling grapes, and says, "in Missouri he can average 500 gallons to 600 gallons per acre easy enough with Norton's Virginia." I therefore stand corrected as to Missouri, but will say in Ohio it never has given us over 200 gallons per acre.

Mr. Husmann attributes my preference for the Ives to the "fact that the Norton is one of the hardest vines to propagate - the Ives one of the easiest," and is right in doing so. I have been taught by Nature that she does nothing in vain, " that wherever she designs a production, she disposes a way proper for it."

Take the cuttings of the Ives, and let the most unskillful hand plant them in the open field, most of them will grow. Take the cuttings of the Norton, with the assistance of art and a hot-bed, you can only force a few unwilling plants.

We can follow Nature farther and make wine from the Ives at one fourth the cost making it from the Norton.

I shall continue to propagate and urge the cultivation of the Ives and Norton Virginia grapes, hoping thereby to assist in turning our barley fields into vineyards, and making malt liquors give place to native wines. When this good time shall come, having Nature for our guardian, she will invite us to use the Ives wine freely, and on account of the great strength of the Norton wine, will admonish us to use it* for "medical purposes," and to draw old topers from malt and distilled liquors.

Respectfully, J. M. M. Cullogh.