I strike my cuttings, which are obtained as soon as the wood is thoroughly ripe, under hand-glasses in the open ground, watering them very slightly for a week or two, but exposing them to dews at night When they are well rooted, they are lifted and potted in turfy loam, two year old cow dung, some peat and silver sand, all well mixed together, and placed on an efficient drainage. The plants arc then set in a cold frame, and kept close in the day-time, till they have become established; but they are left open at night Ultimately the lights are off during both day and night, and, as soon as they will bear it, they are placed on boards, exposed to all weathers, until the long, cold, late autumn nights cause them to be placed in-doors. The main point in their out-door treatment is, never to allow them to get water-logged or stunted in their growth. They receive a shift in November, using a compost mentioned above without the peat. They are again shifted in February, and each shoot stopped at the fourth joint Lateral shoots are then produced, and these are tied out horizontally, so as to form the basis of the future specimen. The lateral shoots are also stopped, and by these means plenty of wood is obtained for large plants in the following season.

But I have another mode of proceedings which is, to take strong plants in April or May, pot them in 11-inch pots, place them out of doors, and pick the flowers off them throughout the season. Next year they are fit for exhibition. The plants that are to blossom in May are never stopped after they are cut down in July. The June plants are stopped early in January, and those for July in February. To grow Pelargoniums successfully, I find that much depends on their winter treatment They should not receive too much water or fire-heat and the wood should be well ripened before they are allowed to flower, if a fine head of bloom is wanted. My general time for cutting down is between the first week of July and the middle of August according to the ripeness of the wood. When the plants have fairly broken, the old soil is shaken clean from their roots; the latter are trimmed in a little, and the plants are re-potted and placed in a frame till the have become established, when they are placed out of doors till they are removed to their winter quarters. To come in for exhibition in May or June, they are re-potted in November, and for July in February. When they begin to show flower-buds, liquid manure is occasionally given them.

The latter is made by putting into a large tub of soft water half a barrow-load each of cow, sheep, and horse-dung, and a peek of lime, mixed well and using the clear liquid, after two-thirds of clean water has been added to it During the blooming season plenty of water (not liquid manure, that is only given five or six times just before they come into flower) is required, otherwise the foliage becomes discolored, and the blossoms come small and deformed. - P., in London Gardeners' Chronicle.