This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
Where it may be required to have Celery early, the earthing must be commenced accordingly; but, generally speaking, too much hurry in this case is not good. One of the reasons why Celery is spongy and insipid, is owing to the soil having been in contact with it too long. While the temperature continues warm, and growth is proceeding rapidly, three to four weeks is quite enough to prepare for use; so that according to the time it may be wanted, the earthing may be commenced to correspond. There is no difficulty in producing it ready for table by the beginning of August, by a little earlier sowing and extra pains-taking; but more commonly it is considered quite early enough at the beginning of September. The old notion that this vegetable is not good until it has been nipped by the frost, belongs to bygone days, and it is time that we got rid of such ideas; be assured, that if the frost acts upon it, the flavor will be injured, and the crispness destroyed. When commencing to blanch, go over and break out all outside offshoots or decayed base-leaves; loosen up each side of the row, keeping clear of the roots; break up the soil well; lift the leaves up into a perpendicular position, and while holding them so with one hand, fill in and around with the other about six inches of earth, taking care that it does not fall down into the heart; and always choose a dry day for this operation.
After proceeding thus along the whole length, stretch a line about eighteen inches from the row on each side, give a cut outside the line, and lift up enough soil to make an equal surface with that placed to the plants. This process will make what was previously a trench into a bank, with the double row of plants in the center. As growth progresses, this operation will have to be repeated. A practiced eye requires no guide as to how often, or how much ought to be done, and no definite rule can be given; for where there is great luxuriance, more depth and often repeated earthing will be necessary; but if we take a medium average, once a week will be a general requirement for three or four weeks. Some persons do not earth at all until they intend to do it finally; but, excepting for the latest crops, or that which is wanted for spring use, this practice is open to much objection. In the first place, the stalks have by this time grown outward to a horizontal position, and become solid, so that they will break or split at the bottom, which brings on rottenness, and disfigures the form of the head.
The soil also is more subject to fall down into the center by the great depth which is put on; and as the stalks have hitherto had light and air, the leaflets are more numerous and situated closer to the base, and consequently they have to be covered up. These often rot, and always prevent the young heart-leaves from ascending straight, the result of which is distorted form and crooked stalks.
With regard to that portion of the crop which is required for latter winter and early spring use, an exception to this is advisable; for, as stated above, if the soil remains too long in contact, the quality is injured. Therefore, in this case, do not earth up any further than merely to give an upright position to the stalks; and when it is to be done, finish at one or two operations. The best time to commence earthing this late portion, is a little before frosty nights begin to occur.
 
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