As digging with me commenced almost with my life, and I think will only end with me in death, therefore it is natural I should have a fellow feeling for your correspondent, "An old Digger;" I have read all his letters for this two or three yearn past, and must say, as far as a digger is allowed to be a judge, that they are all to the point, good sound unvarnished tales, and well delivered; but I believe Jeffries paid him a pretty little compliment, but I must not undertake such things, or I may get the promise of a good shower of walking canes and umbrellas. To come to the point: peas are the things I wish to talk about; old Digger's method is very good in its way, and as he has been kind enough to lay it before the readers of the Horticulturist, I will in return tell you my plan.

In the first place get some weather boarding cut in about foot lengths, (longer will be unhandy,) then cut a sod the length and breadth of the board, lay it with the grass side down, let the sod be about three inches thick, (of course good old pasture sods are the best;) cut a channel down the center of the sod, sow the peas therein and cover them with good light rich soil; put them in a hot-bed frame, on a mild heat; fill all the chinks between the sods with some light soil; when the peas appear above the ground give all-the air you can; when they are up about two inches remove them into a cold frame; a covering with boards in case of very bad weather will do. When the time arrives for planting, open a trench wide enough to take the sods; they will slip off the board very readily. I have grown peas for many years this way, and where I have had the convenience of vineries, where I could shift them from the first to the second or third house to harden them off, I have had them in bloom and supported by strings attached to straps nailed on to the boards. But the least trouble is some brush just strong enough to keep up the peas.

I have at this time a good crop of snapbeans as well as peas grown in this way; the beans will be in flower by the time I can put them out.

This is not all I grow in this way; cucumbers, musk and water-melons, squashes, egg-plant, okra, etc. succeed equally well. I prepare the boards and sods the same as for peas and beans with this slight difference; after the long sod is laid on-the board, I cut it into about five blocks and scoop out the middle. I then drop in the seeds, allowing enough for thinning. They are then treated the same as the peas; they are not taken so soon out of the hot-bed, but give them full air every day you can; when the season is far enough advanced all you have to do is to put them in the hills, sods and all, and they will never know they were forced. R. Weston. Ashwood, Tennessee, March 26, 1851.

Early Peas #1

At least a week earlier than those not watered, and much stronger in leaf and pod.

Early Peas #2

As soon as the frost is sufficiently out of the ground to enable it to be dug or plowed, it is advisable to prepare for sowing peas. It is not requisite that the soil should be rich, but if deeply stirred and of moderate fertility, the crop will be abundant and long continued. Shallow soils and shallow planting give shallow returns, or, in other words, give dwarf vines, short pods, and but one or two pickings. Of varieties that we have found valuable, " Carter's Extra Early," or " First Crop," matures early and is productive. Ne Plus Ultra, Philadelphia Early, and Prince Albert are all good until "Champion of England" matures, with which we are satisfied, and continue its use by having succession of plantings to come along in due time one after the other.