This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
To have a good display of flowers during next summer, dig five or six inches of manure eighteen inches deep in the flower beds. If the ground is trenched over and the poor soil brought to the surface, so much the better. The surface soil being poor will throw the plants into flower at once, and this flowering property will be maintained as warm weather increases, on account of the roots coming in contact with the manure below.
But little can be done here at present. Manure and composts may be applied, and the walks repaired if necessary. Geometrical gardens cut on the lawn should be carefully studied, with a view of arranging the plants to the best advantage, and ascertain the kinds and quantities required. Much taste and skill may be displayed in the combination and harmonious arrangement of various colored flowers in this description of garden.
An estimate should be made of the quantity of plants likely to be needed for the flower-beds, and all deficiencies met by propagation. Of late years, the prevailing style of decorating flower-gardens has been in grouping beds of different colors, each bed being filled with one kind of plant. In small geometrical gardens this looks very well, if skilfully done; the plants best adapted to this style are those of compact habit, and free flowering properties; permanence of flower is a further requisite, colors brilliant, and the plant easily propagated. Geraniums, lantanas, verbenas, vincas, galardias, petunias, salvias, nierembergias, and heliotropes, are the most popular and suitable. The principal stock should be secured in the fall, at which period cuttings are readily procured.
Plants propagated now will grow as freely as those kept over winter; the latter, however, will give flowers earlier. There are various expedients for striking cuttings. A good one is to procure a box with sides a foot in depth, in which is placed a few inches of sand or light earth; set it on the greenhouse shelf above the hottest part of the flue or waterpipes, the bottom of the box should be thickly perforated with holes, to admit heat to the sand; the box should be covered with large loose squares of glass; its ample sides obviate the necessity of shading.
Roses; to have perpetual, recourse must be had to deep culture. Dig the soil to a depth of eighteen inches, and throw aside the subsoil, supply its place with good surface soil and manure; to have continued bloom, the plants must be kept in continued growth, and that can only be guaranteed by allowing the roots a deep and suitable medium, to escape from the burning sun and severe droughts of summer. A soore of plants thus cared for, will give more flowers than a hundred under ordinary treatment.
Plants intended for the borders should be "hardened off" - that is, accustomed to the weather for two weeks before planting out. The hardier kinds, as verbenas, should be planted early. If left until the end of May, as is usually the case, the warm, dry weather sets them to flower instead of growth; and, unless planted very thick at first, the ground will not be covered for months. A few degrees of frost will not harm them, and they will take to growth before overtaken by sultry weather.
Asters, balsams, and other annual flowering plants, may be sown in, a frame, or a sheltered corner, in shallow drills, to be transplanted when of sufficient size.
Hollyhocks are very effective in masses, or singly, in shrubbery borders. Procure seed of good varieties, and sow it at once; transplant in nursery rows when about a couple of inches high. The following season, they may be placed where wanted to flower.
Dahlia roots that have not commenced to grow, may be planted out towards the end of the month. They are increased by division of the roots, and cuttings root quickly if not kept too close and damp.
Violets should be divided and planted in rows, in rich soil. The tree violet is a useful kind; cuttings put in now, will form fine flowering plants for next winter.
Dahlias, heliotropes, balsams, and other tender plants, should be left under cover until the middle of the month. The hardier kinds may be planted out at once. In planting geometrical flower gardens, it has been usual to fill each bed with a separate kind of plant. When properly carried out, the effect is good. Where the beds are irregular, a better effect is produced by introducing several species, for instance a centre of scarlet pelargoniums may be surrounded with white verbenas. Blue salvias and the yellow Oeon-thera, heliotropes, and petunias, form good combinations. Beds of white roses are heightened in beauty when carpeted with scarlet verbenas. Much taste may be displayed in contrasting colors, and arranging plants with reference to height, shape, and color. These mental preliminaries should receive attention, and be decided upon previous to commencing active operations. Chrysanthemum cuttings may be rooted readily at this season; they will come into flower for greenhouse and conservatory decoration in the fall.
Lawns must be frequently mown to look well; rake the out grass quite clean. A hard broom will answer for small plots. In more extensive places, the patent grass or daisy rake, is indispensable. Cut early in the morning, when there is copious dew, and clean up immediately, if you wish to economize labor. A smooth, green lawn suggests repose and quiet; all necessary labor, in keeping, should therefore be performed in the most expeditious manner.
 
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