Now, if you have extensive planting to be done, and the above preparations are completed, you can wait until the ground is thoroughly frozen in winter, when the removal should be done, taking care not to bruise the trees, and leaving the ball of dirt as large as can be conveniently moved. If but few trees are to be removed, and the weather is favorable, i. e., cold, freezing nights and warm days, some practice moving the trees in the fall, early in the morning, after a crust has been frozen over the ball of dirt left about the tree dug around the day previous, and thus obviate the necessity of covering the dirt, which thaws out at midday, if left exposed on the surface near the hole. But where extensive planting is to be done, the first method should be adopted. Then in midwinter remove the filling, and dig down the bank on the most convenient side to such a slant as to admit a stone-boat or sled being backed under the tree, when tipped, over in the opposite direction. In this way, trees a foot in diameter may be safely moved, if you apply force enough to move them.

Another method of moving large trees is to use a wide, stout cart with a heavy tongue, which last is raised along side the body of the tree and bound fast, at the same time passing a strong chain under the ball of roots and over the axle of the cart, then pull the tree over with a long rope attached to the end of the tongue, after which, hitch a team to the root end, draw it to the new hole on planks, and lower as before directed.

Before removing the tree, be sure and make some mark, either by cutting off a limb or peeling the bark from the body a little, always on the same side of every tree you remove, the more easily to be remembered, by which you may know how the tree stood, and thus be able to place the same sides to the same points of the compass when you set them out. Some think this an unimportant point, while others lay great stress upon it. At least, it is a safe rule and requires little extra work; and indeed it would seem quite reasonable that the same side that had become acclimated to the rays of the sun or any class of winds should be best able to conform to their effects when transplanted in the same relative positions. As a general rule, the width of the roots left should be as many feet as the tree is inches in diameter. After drawing the tree to its place, remove the filling and dirt until to the right depth by measure, and then lower the tree carefully to its place, packing the dirt about the ball and using the rest of the filling for a mulch.

For removing small trees or shrubs, and always for evergreens, which are much more difficult to make grow, where the dirt is to be removed from the roots, damp days should be chosen; otherwise great care should be taken to cover and moisten the roots. Your success will also depend much upon the kind of trees chosen.

Maples, elms, ashes, and most nursery-grown trees are quite tenacious of life; but oaks, hickories, chestnuts, and other deep-rooted trees must be handled with care. Some cut a circle about the tree, severing the roots some distance from the body, or even dig a trench and fill with rich dirt six months before removal, causing many fine, fibrous roots to spring out. Never select tall, spindling trees, grown in deep shade; but rather get good, healthy, stocky trees from the open fields or outskirts of the woods, where the sunlight and winds have had a chance to harden and acclimate them to the conditions with which they are likely to meet in your exposed lawns or roadsides. The land must be thoroughly drained previously, so that no water will settle in the holes, for no success need be expected with most trees unless this is done, either naturally or by tiles.