This section is from the book "How To Buy Furniture For The Home", by Forrest Loman Oilar. Also available from Amazon: How To Buy Furniture For The Home.
The splits, having no natural grain surface, require a different treatment looking to the production of an artificial grain or surface. They have a more or less rough nap, like the under side of any leather. Before they can receive a finish, this must he concealed. A sticky preparation made of linseed oil and other ingredients is applied to the skins, which have been stretched taut on a frame. When this coat is partly dried, it is smoothed down, laying the nap all in one direction. The process is repeated until a smooth, even surface is obtained. Hides which are to he finished in light tones have been subected to a bleaching process prior to this.
From this point the hand or machine buffs, with their natural smooth surface, and the splits with an artificial one, receive similar treatment for a time. Various coatings of varnishes are applied, containing the colors which are desired. The basis of these varnishes is linseed oil boiled to a jelly-like mass and thinned with other materials. The skill of the currier is here displayed in his preparation of varnishes, or "daubs," as they are called, which will preserve the leather, wear without cracking or peeling, and be of an even color or tone throughout. The mixing of the colors is an art in itself. Several modern processes along this line have been tried by some manufacturers, such as the application of a highly inflammable solution of gun cotton which dries on the outside but remains soft underneath. The old-fashioned methods arc still generally used, however.
The final process is the production of the "grain" or characteristic appearance of the natural skin. In the many processes to which the hide has been subjected, the natural grain has been all smoothed and "slicked" away. For shoe and other leathers this is desirable, but for upholstery, bag and other purposes, a more or less roughened surface is wanted. The split leather has had its grain surface removed, therefore it is impossible to give it a natural grain. The outer layer or buff retains its grain and it merely needs to be manipulated by a process known as "boarding" to come out again.
Modern inventive genius has made it possible to reproduce the characteristic grain of any leather on the beef hide. Generally, the natural skins are too small or present other difficulties which prevent their use in upholstery. Therefore, the manufacturer has a photograph made of a typical surface, a reproduction is made in the form of a plate, almost identical with the plates used in newspaper or book printing, and this is used in a powerful press to "print" or emboss the desired surface. It is in this way that grains, such as elephant, hippopotamus, seal, monkey and others, are produced.
Elephant and hippopotamus hides have a deep, rough and irregular grain, seal has an even, rounded grain, and monkey a rougher, blistered appearance. Real seal was formerly used. to some extent, in upholstery, as the skins are often as large as those of cattle. It must be noted that these are not the fur-bearing seals which are only found in the North Pacific, but the white or hair seal, a much larger animal which is captured in the North Atlantic and Arctic regions. In the old whaling days, many of them were brought in, but with the decline of the whaling industry the supply has become so small as to be negligible. The natural seal has a fine, hold grain, reproductions of which are popular for purses and ladies' handbag.
 
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