348. Clear Turtle Soup

Proceed in the preparation of the turtle stock, in every respect, according to the preceding instructions.

The glutinous parts of the turtle having been cut into squares, select the dark-colored pieces proceeding from the back shell, and keep them for the clear turtle. When the turtle stock has boiled six hours, strain it off and divide it into two equal parts ; the one to be finished in the usual manner, the other to be first freed from every particle of grease, and afterward clarified in the usual manner, with two whites of eggs whipped up with a little spring water, and the addition of a glass of French white wine, or the juice of a lemon ; add a proportionate quantity of turtle herbs, to give the requisite flavor, and set it to boil on the stove-fire, whisking it the whole time. As soon as the egg begins to separate in the stock, remove it to the side of the stove, pour in half a bottle of Madeira, and allow the whole to simmer gently until the egg be thoroughly set. Then proceed to strain it through a napkin into a large stewpan, in which afterward put the pieces of turtle selected for the purpose; boil them in it until they are sufficiently done, and then add a little crystallized soluble cayenne.pepper, and serve.

If considered desirable, a little lemon-juice and a few quenelles of fowl may be added, as also some of the finest pieces of the green fat.

Clear turtle soup is preferred by some epicures to that which is dressed in the usual way, from its bing free from the additional compounds used in the full-dressed turtle. It is, in consequence, much lighter, more delicate and pure, and is unquestionably easier of digestion.

349. Mock-Turtle Soup

Procure a scalded calf's head, or, as it is sometimes called, a turtle-head ; bone it in the following manner: - Place the calf's head on the table with the front part of the head facing you ; draw the sharp point of a knife from the back part of the head right down to the nose, making an incision down to the bone of the skull ; then with the knife clear the scalp and cheeks from the bones right and left, always keeping the point of the knife close to the bone. Having boned the head, put it into a large stewpan of cold water on the fire; as soon as it boils, skim it well, and let it continue to boil for ten minutes; take the calf's head out and put it into a pan full of cold water. Then get a proper sized stockpot, and after having buttered the bottom thereof, place in it four slices of raw ham, two large knuckles of veal, and an old hen partially roasted, moisten with two quarts of broth, and put the stockpot on the stove-fire to boil until the broth is reduced to a glaze, when instantly slacken the heat by covering the fire with ashes, and then leave the soup to color itself gradually. Allow the glaze at the bottom of the stewpan to be reduced to the same consistency as for brown sauce, and fill up the stockpot with water, leaving room for the calf's head, which separate into two halves, and pare off all the rough cuticle about the inner parts of the mouth, then place it in the stock, and after setting it to boil, and thoroughly skimming it, garnish with the usual complement of vegetables, six cloves, two blades of mace, half a pottle of mushrooms, four shalots, and a good bunch of parsley, green onions, thyme, and bay-leaf tied together, and a little salt. Set it by the fire to boil gently till the calf's head is done ; then take the pieces of head out, and place them on a dish to cool, afterward to be cut into squares, and put into a basin till required for adding them to the soup. Strain the stock through a broth cloth, and thicken it with some light-colored roux, to the consistency of thin brown sauce ; let it boil, and allow it to throw up all the butter, and clarify itself thoroughly ; then add half a bottle of Sherry, about half a pint of puree of turtle herbs (No. 347) in which six auchovies have been mixed, a little crystallized soluble cayenne pepper, and the calfs head cut into squares, as also the tongue braized with it. Let these boil together for about ten minutes, then add three or four dozen small round quenelles and a little lemon-juice, and send to table.