Suppose at the end of this time that by means of the thermometer, and by adjustment of the gas, that the temperature has been steadily maintained, preparation must be made for leaving it for the night, so that the temperature shall not henceforth exceed 1500; on the other hand, it shall not fall below 1300. With a little observation, it is easy to ascertain how much gas suffices to do this during the night; and a small quantity of fresh stock to fully cover the ham is added the last thing. The cover of the pot being always on, the loss by evaporation is very small; but towards the close of the process, the stock may be allowed to diminish one-third or so of the original quantity.

* Negretti & Zambra, Regent Street, supply these made as described. See frontispiece for thermometer used.

Temperature never to exceed 1700.

You will examine the thermometer on arriving at the kitchen in the morning. It may be found perhaps a little less than 1300, which is a smaller error than a rise above 1700. With a sharp skewer ascertain in two places at least whether the ham is becoming tender. If it is quite so, all you have to do is to let the temperature be about 1400 or so during the day until the next step in the proceeding. If still not tender enough, let it be 1600. If quite tender, let it be 1300 or so.

Supposing you have arrived at about four hours before the time for serving, the ham is now taken out and skinned in the usual manner, then returned to the pot, together with a bottle of good wine emptied into it, which, of course, reduces the temperature. Raise this gradually to 1400 as before. If a red wine, let it be a good mid-quality Burgundy; or a good red Italian wine may suffice. If white be preferred, a bottle of fair Sauterne or Graves.

The temperature last named is to be continued until the ham is served. The remaining contents of the pot are now to be carefully skimmed to remove fat, a portion strained through a tammy without addition, reduced to a glaze in a small saucepan, and served in a sauce-boat apart. Or, if preferred, a cherry or other acid-sweet sauce may be substituted. I strongly recommend the former for a ham which is served hot.

It is very easy to overcook a ham in 36 hours, so that the flesh falls from the bones, and can scarcely be cut. It is equally certain that it will not be so, although it will be deliciously tender, provided that the rules above given respecting the temperature are followed.

The wine added.

The sauce.

Braising, the Complete Process.

The third principle in braising is not generally considered essential to the process, although it is undoubtedly the last refinement necessary to produce a first - rate example. It is that of partially browning or half-roasting the portion also; and this may be accomplished in two ways. The legitimate or original way of doing this, is, to have well fitted to the braise-pot a sunk copper or iron cover, in which some hot cinders or charcoal are placed, towards the end of the process, when the braise is nearly finished, in order to transmit downwards a scorching heat to the top of the portion which is uncovered by the liquid in the pot below. The upper surface of the meat thus obtains that browning of the surface which is the crowning addition to other flavours, before referred to as "the taste of the fire." In treating it thus, the portion should be covered, especially if a fowl, with a piece of white paper, which serves to shield a delicate morsel from a too fierce heat. The other and inferior way is to very lightly roast the meat, before putting it into the pot to braise, and so dispense with the hot cinders or charcoal on the cover; but this hardens the flesh,and tends to prevent the juices penetrating it, and cannot be recommended.

It may be seen, then, that a braise in which no roasting is employed, does not, after the necessary materials have been prepared, require a great deal of attention, if the cook knows the corner of the fire or hot plate, where the slow and very gentle temperature will maintain itself regularly for three or four hours. . One of the most important practical results of "slow cooking" is that, in hot summer weather, by its means a small joint, such as a neck, loin, or even a small leg of mutton, from a sheep killed yesterday, can be served at table to-day as tender as if it had been hung for ten days in cold weather. It has merely to be put into a large saucepan filled with boiling water, which must be maintained at the boiling point for about five minutes only. Then the vessel is to be removed to a corner of the fire or hotplate, or over a gas ring, and the temperature be permitted to fall to about 1700 - 175°, and remain so for a period of time at least three times the length of that usually ordered by the cookery book for boiling the joint in question - say for four or five hours instead of one or 1 1/2 for a small one. It may then be served as it is; or, better still, be well sprinkled with the raspings of a French roll, placed in the oven, and be basted with a little butter until it is covered with a brown crust, which renders it an appetizing dish, giving it to some extent the flavour and aroma of a roasted joint.

Caution.