The cutting will have made from three to five shoots, according to circumstances, the first year; these at pruning-time ought to be cut back pretty near home, when during the following year they will make at least twice as many shoots, which the following autumn or winter ought to be cut back to about 6 inches long. At this time they ought to be planted into lines 2 feet apart and 2 feet plant from plant. The pruning the following season will consist only in removing any superfluous shoots, and leaving all the best placed and nicest shoots at 2 or 3 inches less than their natural length. This shortening back is to encourage the branching habit so necessary to the furnishing of a well-managed bush. All the branches of a Gooseberry ought to stand out at regular distances, the whole forming a nice hemisphere much like what we have seen well-grown Pelargoniums. Some kinds are easily managed in this way, others are not nearly so manageable, but by a judicious handling of the knife some approach to it can be made in every case.

The Gooseberry ought to be fit to plant into its permanent position at four years of age from the cutting. It ought then to be a nice bush over 2 feet in diameter, and bearing a nice little crop of fruit. As it is necessary to prolong the season of the Gooseberry as much as possible, various positions must be chosen for it. For the earlier varieties a situation having a fine southern exposure ought to be chosen. The soil ought to be of a nice light rich character, free from all superabundance of moisture, and yet accessible to all the showers that fall. In such a situation first-class fruit of the highest quality ought to be grown, and should come into season at the"earliest possible time. For late and long-keeping varieties it is necessary to consider two things; first, what are the best varieties for this purpose, and where the best position. To the first of these questions the answer is, the Ironmonger and Warrington. To the second question the answer is, on the northern exposure of a southern wall. For the growth of these varieties we have often noticed that soil of a heavier and even richer nature is necessary than for the earlier kinds. It is well to bear this in mind, and prepare borders accordingly.

A good arrangement is to plant the late Gooseberries under the wall where the Morello Cherries are grown. The soil which grows this Cherry well is admirably adapted for the "Warrington Gooseberry. By thus planting them upon the one border a deal of labour and expense is obviated in protecting from the ravages of birds. A net stretched from the cope of the wall over the border and bushes to the box will cover more than double the fruit it would have done had the two crops been separate. Thus by adopting this or some such plan there is a deal of practical utility. In the planting of a Gooseberry plantation a considerable amount of care and forethought must be exercised. The distances between the plants will depend upon whether the plants grow vigorous and large, or, as is sometimes the case, but sparingly. If the latter, then 4 feet apart may be enough; if, however, they grow large, then 6 feet may not be too much. A very good distance is 6 feet-lines and 5 feet bush from bush. It is seldom the Gooseberry requires more than this, and these distances are wide enough to give plenty of room without wasting any space. The holes may be made 3 feet in diameter and 1 foot deep.

Into these may be placed 4 or 5 inches of good rotten dung raising the centre of the hole into a convex shape, over which an inch or more of the soil may be placed. Upon this may be placed the roots of the bush, and after they have been well spread out they may receive a good covering over with soil to the depth of an inch or two; Over this may be placed another layer of 2 or 3 inches of manure, the whole finished over with the remaining soil. A stake should be put into every bush at planting-time to keep it steady, as they are very apt to be tossed about by the wind, especially if the stems are long, as we have recommended them to be.

There is just one other thing which I would desire to notice regarding Gooseberry cultivation, and that is summer pruning, which, if judiciously done, is of much advantage. The best time to do this is towards the end of June, when they have in a measure completed their growth. All terminal shoots and those needed for vacant spaces must be left at full length, all other shoots may be removed, except from 2 to 3 inches. The shoots then cut are intended to be cut back to the regular pruning length in winter. These will form fruit-bearing spurs, and by being cut back in this manner in summer they will be better exposed to the action of light and air, and consequently will form firmer and finer buds. Besides these advantages, there will be less trouble in the fruit-gathering season, as the fruit will be more easily reached and more quickly pulled. The only disease to which the Gooseberry is liable is the dying-off of branches, and sometimes whole bushes, without any apparent reason. This, however, chiefly occurs in localities not too favourable to the culture of this fruit, and from hunger and starvation in poor soils.

To obviate this the best plan is to be particular in giving them the best soil and position at the cultivator's command.

Of insect enemies there are several. The Nernaetus Ribesii, or saw-fly of the Gooseberry and Currant, is one. In early spring it deposits its eggs upon the under surface of the leaf. In about eight days the larva is hatched and begins destroying the leaf, which in the course of time is all devoured save the petiole. When about full grown it descends to the earth, where it forms a cocoon - then changes into a fly, from which succeeding generations immediately spring. Gathering and destroying the leaves upon which the eggs are deposited is a very good plan. Another and equally as good a method is to syringe the bushes of an evening, and have them dusted with one of either of the three following things; viz., lime, soot, or sulphur.

The Abraxus grossulariata, or magpie moth, is another very destructive pest, depositing its eggs also upon the foliage, which in September produces a hairy cream-coloured caterpillar, having orange stripes along each side and slightly spotted with black. Its destruction is done much in the same manner as the saw-fly already described. Its ravages are committed, however, both in autumn and spring. In May or June it changes into a pupa, and in three weeks it forms the perfect insect. The only remedy is to hand-pick the caterpillar, or burn the leaves upon which the eggs are deposited. A decoction of hellebore applied to the bushes is perhaps the speediest and most effectual cure.

Another caterpillar, that of the Phaloena vanaria, is also very destructive to the Gooseberry. It is of a bluish-green colour, about 1 inch in length, and more distinctly spotted with black than in the former case. Unlike the last it, undergoes its transformation in the earth, and begins to prey upon the young leaves as soon as they begin to develop. To prevent its ravages a good plan is to sprinkle lime in winter around the roots of the bushes. If it ascends to the bushes, the only plan is to remove them by the hand or destroy by hellebore. It changes into a pupa about the beginning of June, and in July comes forth the perfect insect. James M'Millan.

(To be continued).