Herbaceous Borders

There are not likely to be many flowers, although in a mild autumn Stenactis speciosa, a few late Michaelmas Daisies, Chrysanthemums, and Dahlias may still be in beauty. As long as a border remains fresh it may be left, because it gives something cheerful to the eye, and the shock of loss and blankness which follows a clearance should be deferred as long as possible. But when the foliage becomes discoloured and the stems leafless, the plants should be cut down to the ground, the prunings taken to the rubbish corner, and burnt. The border can be dug then, such fresh planting as is desired carried out (see earlier chapter for notes on suitable plants and attractive colour schemes), bulbs put in, and all left neat for the winter.

Fig. 88. - Hyacinths in Glasses (p. 378).

a. Bulb just touching water.

b. Lumps of charcoal.

c. Bulb growing.

d. Spike showing.

e. Roots growing in the water.

Hyacinths In Glasses

The culture of Hyacinths in vases of peat-moss fibre has tended to reduce the use of these popular spring-flowering plants in glasses of water. While those who intend to buy either vases or glasses might well decide in favour of the former, it is certain that those who have glasses in store will want to make use of them. Smooth, even bulbs should be chosen, and water put in nearly to the base. One or two pieces of charcoal will help to keep it pure. The glasses ought to stand in a dark place until the bulbs have rooted freely.

Roses

There is much work in the Rose garden in November. While there should be no such thing as a general pruning, it is desirable to shorten any long, late-formed, sappy shoots on open-ground plants. The growths of pillar and wall Roses should be tied in, but old canes that are not needed for future flowering may be pruned back to a young shoot, or even cut out altogether. The question of protection is important in cold places. So far as dwarf plants are concerned, it is easily provided by drawing the soil up in a mound above the lower buds, and leaving it there till early spring, when growth from the base of the plants can be relied on. This being so, it is not of great consequence if some injury is done to the upper parts. The side shoots of standards often get badly nipped. If the somewhat unsightly appearance is not objected to, some bracken may be laid among the branches, and a piece of canvas tied round the head, in the case of special varieties. A wall plant can be protected by nailing a mat over it, but wall Roses do not often suffer much. Most of the planting of the year is done in November. The ground ought to be prepared thoroughly by digging it two feet deep and working in a liberal dressing of good yard manure. The Roses should be planted firmly, and the standards staked. The plants may be two feet apart, except in the case of very vigorous varieties, which may be two and a half feet. The nature of the sort can be judged by the length and thickness of the wood. Where pillars, arches, or pergolas are being put in for Roses or other climbers, the uprights should be embedded two and a half feet to insure security, and the part to be covered with soil soaked in hot tar or creosote. Larch poles with the lower part stripped of the bark are lasting if treated as advised. Poles are apt to rot just at the surface of the soil; this is because the preservative coating is not brought high enough. Those who want to bud their own standard stocks in summer should procure standard Dog Roses, which are dug from the hedgerows in November, and plant them a foot apart in rows a yard asunder. Some good varieties were named in a previous chapter.

Herbaceous Flowers and Clipped Yews round the Bowling Green at Berkeley Castle, Glos.

From a Water Colour Drawing by E. A. Rowe.