Polygonum Affine

Rose, dwarf, a summer bloomer. Some of the Polygonums are very large plants, and could not be used in rockwork.

Polyanthuses And Primroses

Best raised from reliable strains of mixed seed in early summer for blooming the following year.

Primula Japonica

Purplish rose, thrives in moist spots near water.

Primula Rosea

Bright rose, thrives in moist spots near water.

Ramondia Pyrenaica

A beautiful Alpine, with lilac-blue flowers in summer. There is a white variety, which is dearer than the species.

Ranunculus Amplexicaulis

White, a spring bloomer.

Saxifraga Granulata Flore Pleno

White, spring, a free-blooming, very useful plant.

Shortia Galacifolia

White, spring, a dainty little plant.

Sisyrinchium Grandiflorum

Purple flowers in spring. There is a white variety, Album.

Soldanella Alpina

A blue spring bloomer.

Spigelia Marylandica

Crimson, a summer bloomer.

Tiarella Cordifolia (Foam Flower)

White flowers in spring, a very graceful plant.

Trillium Grandiflorum (Wood Lily)

A lovely white-flowered bulb that may be planted in autumn for flowering in spring.

References to other beautiful kinds will be made from time to time in the various chapters.

Marguerite Carnations

These are a minor class to the Carnation specialist, as China Roses are to the rosarian, and Cupids to the Sweet Pea exhibitor. But they are pretty, and it is a point in their favour that they can be grown as annuals - that is, flowered in the same year as they are sown. It is, however, desirable to sow the seed in a warm house, or in a heated frame, in order to get the plants started quickly. They can be pricked out in boxes, like other seedlings raised under glass, when they begin to get crowded, and hardened in an unheated frame.

Bulbs After Flowering

Some of the earlier bulbs, such as Freesias and forced Narcissi, may be going out of flower, and this should not be taken as the signal for immediate drying off. On the contrary, the plants should be watered until the foliage ripens naturally. So far as the Narcissi are concerned they may be planted out of doors, so as to get the use of the boxes or pots in which they are growing, and to save the necessity of regular watering. But the Freesias may be kept in their pots until the warm weather comes, then shaken free from the soil and spread on a shelf in the full sun. The roasting will ripen them thoroughly, and they will bloom well again the following winter.

Insects In Plant Houses

Increasing hordes of insects now show themselves on various plants. The ubiquitous green .fly, which has powers of reproduction that surpass the best efforts of our most prolific plants, attacks Cinerarias, Tulips, Roses, and other popular plants. The Aphis also establishes itself on Carnations, and injures the leaves. Insects are apt to be a great worry to amateur gardeners, who shrink from the tedious work of cleansing individual plants. Let me assure them that houses can be kept entirely free from those exasperating little pests by a very simple plan, and that is to make a rule of burning a vaporising cone in the house once a fortnight. The operation takes very little time, and it is not at all disagreeable; moreover, the cones are inexpensive. All seedsmen and florists sell them. The sizes vary, to suit the size of the house; if the seedsman is given the length, height, and width of the house, he will supply the proper size at once. If the house is one leaning against a wall, the height of the front eaves and also the height of the back where it is attached to the wall should be given. If the structure is a span roof, the height to the eaves and also to the ridge should be quoted. These figures enable the mean height to be calculated, and if this is multiplied by the length, and the result of that sum is again multiplied by the width, the total will represent the number of cubic feet in the structure.

The reason why I recommend periodical vaporisation with the cones, is that insects have no chance of spreading. They are always kept in thorough subjection. There should be a fixed day for the operation, and it should be entered in the garden diary - the first and third Mondays in each month, or some similar arrangement. The course indicated prevents injury to the plants, and saves the cultivator worry and annoyance.