The following instructions by Messrs. Hough ton-Butcher, Ltd., will be found to be reliable, simple and concise :-

Printing With Self-Tuning Paper

A printing frame is required, and if you are using films it must have a piece in it to support the film. Self-toning paper " prints out," that is, the image can be clearly seen. It must be printed rather deeper than you might think necessary, as it will lose considerably in the fixing. In all printing operations great cleanliness is again a desideratum, dirty or greasy fingers will mark the prints and ruin the results. The prints should be washed in a few changes of water and then transferred to a hypo bath, which should always be quite fresh. Make up a new dose of solution for each batch of prints. For self-toning paper do not use acid hypo. The bath should be composed of:

Hypo ordinary .... .... 4 ozs.

Plain water .... .... 20 ozs.

About 15 minutes will suffice for fixing, but do not allow the prints to stick together. Keep them moving and wash well in a few changes of water. It is even more necessary to well wash the prints than the negatives, as if any traces of hypo is left in them they will soon fade. At least a half-dozen changes of water are necessary and the time consumed should be about half an hour. They may be dried on special blotting paper which is sold for the purpose, or they may be squeeged down on to a Primus glazier or Ferrotype plate, and left till they are bone dry, when they will easily come off.

Gaslight Printing

The next important process is called gaslight, and it is one of the most satisfactory as the prints can be rapidly made and, more important, the work can be done in the evening, as the exposures are made by artificial light. The gaslight papers are coated with an emulsion similar in constitution to that on the plates, but it is very much slower and may be exposed to gaslight or very weak daylight without any risk of fogging. They yield very pleasing black and white prints, and if brown tones are desired they can be easily toned with one of the many Toners which are sold ready made. Gaslight papers do not print out, the image is invisible and it must be developed in a similar manner to a plate. The most suitable developer is the M.Q., and the solution is stronger than that used for plates. Remember that pyro soda will not do, as it will stain the paper brown, but there are many other developers, such as Serchol, Amidol, etc. Still the beginner is advised to commence with M.Q. You will also require some bromide of potassium. This is an absolute necessity and without its use you will never obtain clear whites. Either buy some from your dealer ready made or make up a little into what is called a 10% solution. This consists of 1/4oz. of potassium bromide to 21/2 ozs. water. It lasts a long time, as only about 8 or 10 drops are necessary for 2ozs. developer.

Fixing

Use acid hypo for fixing, always fresh-throw away any old bath after using it.

Exposing

At first this presents a little difficulty, but if the directions are carefully followed and a little intelligence employed you will very soon find out how to go to work and not waste many prints. The paper must be placed in a printing frame with the smooth side towards the emulsion side of the negative. It must then be exposed to the light. The light employed is usually either candle, gas or electric, which ever you have available. The length of the exposure depends on three things :-

1. ;The density of the negative.

2. ;The power of the light.

3. ;The distance the frame is held from the light.

It is obvious that a candle will be the slowest, and that the electric will be the quickest.

Density

Pick out a few negatives, look through them and sort into two or three batches according to what you think are about the same density, so that similar exposures may be given to those that are alike.

Distance

The distance the frame is to be placed from the light is easily dealt with by making a mark on the table, say at 6, 9 or 12 inches-6 inches is a good distance, and keep to it exactly if you want to find a gauge.

Time

The way to ascertain exactly the correct time to expose is to make three test exposures on one piece of the paper under the negative selected. Take a piece of cardboard that will cover the front of the frame, hold the frame on the mark on the table and remove the card cover about 1/3 of the surface, expose for three seconds; then remove it for another 1/3 and expose the two-thirds for another there seconds: lastly, remove it altogether and expose the whole for a further three seconds, by this means one portion will be exposed for three seconds, one for six, and one for nine seconds.

On developing the print you will see which is the right one. If neither seems accurate, try again and further vary the exposures.

The only guide one can give is:- With a 16 c.p. electric light at 6 inches and a normal negative, the exposure will be about 9 or 10 seconds; but as the different makes of papers very you can really only gain your experience by first making a test exposure.

Gaslight papers develop up very rapidly. They come up almost at once and you have to be quick or they soon over-develop. A little before they appear dark enough, pour off the developer, take them out instantly and immerse in the fixing. Let them remain for about 15 minutes : keep them moving, then wash and dry in the same manner as described for " self-toning."